Perfect Perennial Plants

Perfect Perennial Plants

2014 may be the year you get into perennials but if you need inspiring try a visit to Breezy Knees garden near York
Phlox paniculata

There are so many perennial plants to chose from it is hard to make a choice.
White Phlox above stands out against the lush green leaves.

penstemon

When planning to purchase plants plenty of people prefer Pinks, Penstemon (preceding Photo) and Phlox, that are part of the plug plant perennial collection from Jersey Plants Direct.

carnation

As regular readers may realise I am into alliterative Pinks, Carnations and Dianthus at the moment. I even have a lot of Sweet Williams around the garden. (Don’t the earwigs get up your nose?).

Penstemon posts to peruse –
‘Perfect Penstemon Growing’ – Tip of the post Keep growing young plants to increase your stock.
Mixed Penstemon adding a general fertiliser at the base of the plant is better than heavy manure or strong nitrogen feed as this will just encourage excessive leaf growth.
Growing Penstemon they can give an uninterrupted display of flowers for several months.

Phlox Perennial Phavourite
Tips for growing Phlox – Try the rockery varieties as well as the Paniculatas
Scented Phlox – Phlox will flower in some shade but prefer and smell best in full sun.

Pink Photographs
Perfect Pink Pinks -Pinks prefer neutral to limey soil.
Cottage Garden plants – That is what grans Favourite is for.
Types of Carnation and Pinks– the Dianthus genus encompasses 400 + species and cultivars.

Perennials for Summer

Perennials for Summer

poppy

Perennials are a mainstay for a summer garden or border.

Benefits of Perennials

    • Well obviously they are perennial and should last several seasons, often many years.
    • There are perennials to act as ground cover, add height, shape and texture or provide colour and foliage.
    • Careful selection will provide colour shape and form for every season of the year.
    • Perennials can be herbaceous and totally die back into the soil in Autumn. Others are more twiggy or shrub like.
    • Perennials generally can survive frost and stay in the ground all year round
    • You can get more plants by separation of larger clumps or some root cuttings

Geranium  Rozane Gerwat

Selection of Perennials

Hardy geraniums are available in various colours, flower profusely and are seldom bothered with pests. When flowering has finished cut back the leaves and you may get more flowers or fresh leaves. They are good for ground cover.
Oriental Poppies or Papavera orientale have lush flambouyant foliage. They only flower once per year but are vibrant and eye catching.
Penestemon are ‘good doers’ in the flower stakes. The plants only live a few years but can be cut back every year to maintain some shape to the attractive plants.
Red Hot Poker or Kniphofia uvaria are a tough range of perennial plants. The sword shaped leaves produce the taller spires of flower that give the plants their name. Reds and yellows predominate but green flowers are interesting varieties.
Verbascum also have spires of flowers giving height and interest to the back of borders.
Lupins are a favourite of this web site and my garden.

verbascum Australis

It is not too late to add to your collection of perennials. Pot grown plants will establish good root systems if planted now and watered until established. Then you can hope for many years of fruitful growth.

Links
Russell Lupins
Perennials in Red White and Blue

Colour in a Garden Without Flowers

Colour in a Garden Without Flowers

Grasses

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is an interesting photo because it shows a diverse range of colour in the garden without any flowers. This is an excellent way to design a garden because it provides year round interest. Flowers are then icing on the cake.

The colours in this garden shot also depend on the time of the day, the sun really brings to life some of the leaves and grasses.

The tall grasses also provide interest because of their swaying in the wind and gentle rustling sound.

Heuchera

Leaves of this Heuchera are now being bred in a range of colours and the textures that add additional variety.

Lettuce -  Bijou & Freckles

Even in the vegetable garden you can grow some interesting colour schemes. These lettuce are just a couple of the varieties now available. I also like the ornamental cabbage giving colour throughout winter and the rows or savoy and purple cabbage can draw the eye.

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Choice Autumn Flowers

Choice Autumn Flowers

Golden colours are prominent amongst Autumn flowers and leaves.  These Heleniums are supported by a lighter cream coloured Kniphofia (I can’t call this colour a Red Hot Poker but that is the common name). Kniphofia Rooperi varieties are a bit later flowering than other red hot pokers.

Good Autumn Doers

  • Chrysanthemums are coming into there own and you can buy ready to flower domes of Showmaker pot mum varieties.Use them to plug gaps or on the patios using the original pots. They will last for 6-8 weeks until the frost gets them. The stools are not worth saving as they tend to produce leggy plants even from cuttings in the second year.
  • I have bought some winter flowering pansies to put near the house and in pots. They flower in mild spells through winter and usually come good in March.
  • Japanese Anemones are flowering in clumps of white and pink blossom and can be mixed with Aster frikartii Monch or Phlox.
  • Kaffir lilies like wet soil so this summer they have been getting ready for a good Autumn show. These Schizostylis can be deep red through pinks to a white Alba version.
  • For the house it may be worth buying some small cyclamen which will flower for a long time and can then be planted out in the garden.

November Colour

Autumn Gardeners Top Tip

Water through summer with a liquid feed to boost your Autumn show.

In expectation of an ‘Indian summer’  keep dead heading your plants and do not rush to tidy up for Autumn.
Leave interesting seed heads for decoration and jack frost.
Seeds can be collected or self sown or left to feed the birds.

How to Attract Butterflies into your Garden

How to Attract Butterflies into your Garden

Butterfly GardenCreate a paradise for butterfly and you will benefit from colour twice over. A garden full of eye and butterfly catching, fragrant flowers from spring to autumn can be achieved by selecting some of the following plants.

Butterfly feed on nectar and need this energy giving resource. They also need water from moist soil to which you could add a sprinkling of salt or grow a plant that catches water between its leave like Teasel. Their eggs need food so plant some Cow Parsley, Nettles and Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa).

Butterfly Attracting Flowers

  • Lily of the valley – convallaria
  • Rock Cress – Arabis
  • Sweet Violets – viola odorata
  • Shasta daisy and Coreopsis in summer
  • Buddleia the butterfly bush in white pink or lilac or even Lilac it’s self
  • Dahlia, Cosmos and marigold for their long flowering season
  • Petunia, Verbena and fibrous Begonia
  • Delphinium, Aster and Day Lily

Feeding Time

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Dangerous and Harmful Garden Plants

Dangerous and Harmful Garden Plants

This is not an exclusive list so always take care.
Castor oil plant in August

Hazardous and Dangerous Plants

Not everything in the garden is lovely when it can poison or injure the unsuspecting. The extremely hazardous Poison Ivy and Poison oak related to the Rhus family (Diversiloba, radicans, vernix, succedanea, toxicarium and veniciflua) should be avoided at all cost. Other highly harmful plants are listed below and the effects of eating roots berries or leaves can be serious. Many cause allergies and irritations that also need avoiding.

Tips on Dangerous Plants

  • Don’t let children eat seeds and plants from the garden unless supervised.
  • If you wish to see these types of plant take a trip to the Poison Garden at Alnwick which also includes strychnine opium and cocaine plants under a special Home Office license.

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Remarkable Gooseberry Crops Again

Remarkable Gooseberry Crops Again

Five years ago I wrote about my remarkable gooseberry crop and yet again I have been inundated with great berries this year (2019). ‘Sweet or, sharp and sour the gooseberry is a remarkable soft fruit. Summer 2014 was been a remarkable year for the size of my crop and the freezer was bulging (like my waist from numerous crumbles).’
Gooseberry

Gooseberry Summary Top Tips

  • Plants prefer a cool climate and will withstand a windy position with light well drained soil.
  • Do not feed excessive nitrogen which encourages mildew.
  • Water with a liquid feed as the fruit start to set – this increases berry size and limits splitting.
  • Fruit appear on new and old wood so aim for a balance between the two.
  • Varieties are classified by the colour of the fruit as Red, Green, White and Yellow. At home you may want a mix of kinds.

Gooseberry Calendar

  • Bushes fruit in June and/or July
  • Take cuttings in September,
  • Prune cordon shoots in March but reshape and reinvigorate by pruning in winter.
  • Plant new bushes in November or March if the soil is very heavy.
  • Varieties come in early, mid season and late (examples Early Sulphur, Gunner, Lancer)

gooseberry

What a grand way to grow Gooseberries ‘up a stick’ (or Cordon).   Trained like ballerina apples this  Gooseberry variety London was grown as one vertical trunk. Gooseberry London has very large oval fruit with a smooth skin. The flavour is good and is normally a spreading bush but it makes few branches. It is renown as heavy yielding as can be seen below from a 1st June photo below.

Planting Layout for Legs or Cordons

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Top Ten Flowers – Two Different Lists

Top Ten Flowers – Two Different Lists

Gardeners World ran a series looking for Britains favourite top ten flowers. The BBC didn’t name specific varieties or offer much insight so I have added some Gardeners Tips

  1. Lilies -  Soak in water water for an hour lay sideways on a bed of grit and shade the root run.
  2. Roses – Encourage growth from the ground by planting deeper than they originally grew. Scented varieties Margaret Merrill and Rosa Westerland are worth looking out for
  3. Daffodils – Feed with tomato fertilizer as they finish flowering and leave leaves for 6 weeks. Miniature DAffs are now very trendy but if you have the space go for King Alfred.
  4. Fucshias – Pinch out the tip when they have 4-6 pairs of leaves. I grow Lady and Tom Thumb as well as Winston Churchill
  5. Delphiniums – Treat for slugs in Autumn so they don’t feed on the roots all winter. The white varieties are not as strong as the trditional
  6. Clematis – Plant 6 inches deeper tha the top of the rootball and keep roots cool.
  7. Sweet Peas – Train the strongest side shoot not the main stem for show blooms.
  8. Primulas – Mark plants in flower if you want to split them in June.
  9. Poppies – Cut oriental poppy foliage right back after flowering and stake early.
  10. Irises – Plant in groups of 3-5 to make quicker clumps.

Bulb historian Anna Pavord has also chosen her favourite top ten flowers and surprise, surprise they are all bulbs or corm based flowers. I have put them into alphabetical order

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Tips on Making A Compost Heap.

Tips on Making A Compost Heap.

Compost heap

A compost heap is an excellent way of recycling dead plant material and generating the best possible soil fertiliser. A good compost heap also gives a feeling of satisfaction because it helps the gardener to become part of the natural cycle of growth, decay and regeneration. Using a compost heap will also save many unnecessary trips to the local tip. See also: Benefits of Composting

How To Make a Good Compost Heap

The Compost Bin A compost bin should be about 1 square metre. It is important to have a good size, but, it should also be compact because otherwise the generated heat will be dissipated. It is also best to have at least two bins. This enables one heap to rot down, whilst the other is added to. A compost heap should also be aerated and enable water to enter. If you have an enclosed plastic bin, make sure you water where necessary.

Positioning. A compost heap can be really be put anywhere; most people want to choose a spot that is not too prominent. However, if it receives direct sunlight the process of decomposition will be faster.

Base Layer.
At the bottom of a compost heap it is good to use some twiggy material to make sure there is good drainage; if you have a heavy clay soil, you might want to add some grit to provide good drainage. If a compost heap becomes waterlogged, the process of decomposition will slow down and it will become slimy.

Mixing Layers. The next important strategy is to provide a good mix of material when building up a compost heap. For example, grass is a high source of nitrogen and can break down quickly to generate heat. However, grass needs to be mixed with other more woody material, otherwise it will not rot down properly. Similarly on their own stems and twigs will take a long time to rot down unless they have an activator like grass or over very green material. When adding grass clippings spread them out to form a thin, equal layer; then add a layer of more twiggy material. If necessary store a potential layer for adding at the right time.

Breaking Up Twiggy Material. Thick stems will take a long time to break down. If you have a shredder, it will make the job of composting a lot more successful. It will break down the material and enable much faster composting. If you don’t have a shredder, you can just squash the stems or break them in a few places. A rather crude, but effective, tip is to get a spade and hit down on the top of the heap to break a few stems. Even this small step will help quite a lot; what you are doing is to increase the surface area, enabling faster decomposition.

Water. As mentioned before, water is important. It is important to water a compost heap a bit like watering a plant. If there is no water, the compost heap will dry out and will not decompose. If it is waterlogged it will stagnate. Most compost heaps suffer from being dry, so every now and then throw on some water to speed up the process of decomposition.

Cover. When the compost heap is finished with adequate amounts of water, it is good to cover with a plastic coating. This enable the heap to generate more heat, speeding up the process of decomposition; it also prevents excess water.

Aerate. In hot weather when a compost heap is generating a lot of heat it is a good idea to get a garden cane and poke the heap, every now and then. This allows air to enter and expedites the process of aerobic decomposition. A good heap will have steam coming from it when you aerate it.

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Growing Plants for Aromatherapy Oils

Growing Plants for Aromatherapy Oils

French lavender

Just a drop of aromatherapy oil can have a stimulating or calming influence just as the scent in a good garden can. It is no surprise then that many scents come from plants. Unfortunately for most gardeners the plants , trees and shrubs are native to hot and or damp climates and need special conditions to thrive.

Bergamot is one of the most popular oils coming from the Orange citrus family. Bergamot provides the flavouring in Earl Grey tea. Citrus aurantium ssp. bergamia The bergamot orange is unrelated to the herb of the same name, Monarda didyma.

Ancient oils provided medical remedies, Black Pepper for catarrh, Cedarwood for dandruff, Eucalyptus as an antiseptic. A couple of drops of Rosemary on clothing is said to get rid of sluggishness. Both Myrrh and Frankincense grow as small trees or shrubs; they are of the botanical family Burseraceae. Their natural growing range is limited, but this has been extended by cultivation in Arabia.

Oils for perfume include Patchouli extracted from the leaves of a variety of mint and Otto of Roses made from a Bulgarian rose damascena but needing 60,000 roses to produce one ounce of oil. Ylang Ylang oils name means the Flower of Flowers. Ylang-ylang blends well with most floral, fruit and wood smells.

Tea Tree oil has no link to the Tea plants of the Camellia oleifera. It is extracted from Melaleuca bark and used as an antiseptic.

Herbs that we grow can produce oils but large quantities and distillation equipment is probably required for Basil, Lavender, Peppermint, and Rosemary. Whilst it may be practical to grow many plants in the UK most on the list below need sun and a warm temperature. For small quantities a greenhouse or hot house may be the answer.

Plant Based Essential Oils

– Anise Star Essential Oil
– Basil, sweet Essential Oil
– Bay,  Essential Oil    – practical to grow in the UK
– Bergamot FCF Essential Oil
– White Birch Essential Oil
– Black Pepper Essential Oil
– Cardamon Essential Oil
– Carrot Seed Essential Oil
– Cedarwood Atlas Essential Oil
– Chamomile, German/Blue Essential Oil – practical to grow in the UK
– Clary Sage Essential Oil – practical to grow in the UK
– Clove Bud Essential Oil
– Coriander Essential Oil
– Cypress Essential Oil
– Dill Essential Oil – practical to grow in the UK
– Eucalyptus Globulus Essential Oil
– Fennel, sweet Essential Oil – practical to grow in the UK
– Geranium, Egyptian Essential Oil

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