Gardening – Page 64 – Gardeners Tips

Tricks of the Garden Centre Trade

September 6, 2012 hortoris

I have observed several tricks of the Garden Centre trade and I am sure there are many more. I am only concerned with those that damage or discourage gardeners unnecessarily. To remain in business nurseries and garden centres need to work with gardening customers not against their best interests.

Dubious Habits and Tricks

Putting stock out for sale at the wrong time. This is most prevalent in spring when plants ‘grown soft’ in a hot house environment are put out for sale and to die a premature death unless over cosseted by the buyer.
Selling stock too late in the season for the gardener to get any value from the purchase. This often applies to exotics which have only a narrow flowering window and need an expert to get back to any form of glory.
Dressing plants up cosmetically just to move the stock. e.g. Early pruning of diseased leaves without treating the cause.
Selling bare root plants plonked in a pot with loose compost but no new root growth.

Good Habits and Tricks

Keeping the tops of pots weed free and able to absorb appropriate watering.
Selling timely plants that have been hardened off. I do not want a Dutch glasshouse plant straight off the lorry if it is not going to thrive.
Specializing and growing their own stock that the garden centre fully understands and being willing to pass on the knowledge.
Good trained staff, sensible opening hours and a tidy display of healthy products.

Help us Learn More Tricks

If you have fallen foul of a trick or dubious practice let us know.
If you have received excellent service let us know.
If you are a garden centre or nursery and want to raise a point similarly let us know.

Bergenia for Winter Foliage & Spring Flowers

September 1, 2012 hortoris

The best Bergenias have leaves that turnÂ a strong colour in Autumn. These purple leaves look good in the December garden when compared to the ‘Elephant Ear’Â green varieties of Bergenia. These plants tend to be lusty and the rampant, leathery leaves may need cutting back to keep the plant in control.

Easy Bergenia Growing

Bergenia ciliata make good ground cover plants 1 -2 foot tall depending on the variety.
Bergenia cordifolia varieties have smaller leaved varieties that appeal to me for this red and purple winter leaf colouring.
Cuttings from the rhizomes are easy to root and plants spread naturally in most conditions including shade.
The lime green varieties may be larger leaved and more robust if you wish to cover large areas.
They flower on stems of pink bells in clusters. Begenia Eroica is said to flower for longer.
Dead head the flowers for a continuation of flowering.

This flower is clear white but the buds are a rose pink.
Bergenia have large succulent stalks and like a dampish shady spot
The rhizomes spread and the plant is useful for covering large difficult areas like scree banks. It is too large to sit well in all but the largest rockeries.
Bergenia varieties including Bressingham White, Baby Doll, Rotblum and Bergenia cordifolia are shade tolerant although better sun means better flowers.

Bergenia has some medicinal properties and uses see

Bergenia from amazon

Crocosmia Best Tips & Photos

August 23, 2012 hortoris

Tip 1.
For a strong red Crocosmia the variety ‘Lucifer’ is as red as hell!

Tip 2.
The corms like lots of water but stop short of water logging the soil.

Tip 3.
Stems and sword shaped leaves will grow and stand upright but if they are in the shade they will lean towards the light.

Tip 4.
Get new plants by dividing the clumps of corms in Autumn.

Tip 5.
The strong red shows upwell against the green of the leaves and other green backgrounds in your garden.

Tip 6.
Other types of Crocosmia include Ember Glow, masoniorum and montbretia varieties or new hybrids

The book ‘Crocosmia and Chasmanthe (Royal Horticultural Society Plant Collector Guide)’ by Peter Goldblatt, John Manning and Gary Dunlop plus a range of Crocosmia products are available from Amazon.

Other Crocosmia Pages

Grow Romantic Red Flowers
Good Companions Crocosmia and Euphorbia
Growing good Crocosmia
Crocosmia Lucifer and other Montbretia

Plant a Plant – Gardening Terms

August 12, 2012 hortoris

Plant – to put in the ground for the purposes of growth. You can also plant in a pot or container. To plant is an active verb and the basis of much of gardening.

Plant – a living organism and member of the vegetable kingdom often used as a noun to include trees and shrubs as well as other growing flowers, weeds or herbs.

Plantlet – mini plants or offspring from a main plant as a means of reproducing themselves. e.g. Strawberry runners and Houseleeks (Sempervivum alpinum)

Planter – an ornamental container for plants most often used outdoors.

Plant up – a border or area filled with plants – a container can be ‘planted up’ with a selection of plants.

Plantain – a genus of plants that includes Bananas and a UK weed.

Planting – the act of putting plants, bulbs and roots into a growing medium. A planting is also used as a group term for a collection of plants ie a flower clock can be a ‘planting’ of low growing Sedum and coloured leaved plants.

Plant Kingdom – is a division of living things the other being the animal kingdom. Plant kingdom includes green plants, land plants such as worts and mosses and red algae.

Gardening Plant Tips

Bare rooted plants are normally planted out in spring and autumn when the soil is warm and there is sufficient moisture.
Plants grown in containers can usually planted at any time.
Water new plants once they are planted and keep watering until they become established and able to find moisture for themselves
Plant your plants in a good hole about twice the size of it’s rootball.
Firm the plant into the ground with a fist or heel so it can’t easily be pulled out or have the soil moved to uncover the roots.
Before planting the ground should be prepared by breaking up the soil. Add humus and fertiliser to give your plants roots the best home.

First Cuckoo or Bulb Catalogue of Spring

June 28, 2012 hortoris

It is only 28th June but I have just received my first catalogue for Spring bulbs, is that cuckoo or what?
Still 164 pages of glossy photos in J Parker’s Wholesale catalogue is always welcome and a useful reference up to and past spring.

Why Order Bulbs Early

The early bird gets the fat worm or the best of breed and that can be true of bulbs.
Choice bulbs sell first.
You will not be tempted to buy bargain basement bulbs that will probably be unsuitable.
Some bulbs like Narcissus appreciate a long period in the ground to develop good roots

Why Order Bulbs Later

If you can’t store spring flowering bulbs correctly they will deteriorate.
You need to plant them to suit your garden conditions and when you have the space prepared.
Vendors are after your money – if you order now you will get more catalogues and offers – just watch this space.
You should be in the garden not reading glossy spring bulb catalogues.

Why Wholesale Bulbs

J Parker’s Wholesale catalogue is not only for retailers and professional gardeners.
Bulbs are sold in quantity generally of 100, and 1,000 but you can buy 25 of one variety at the rate for a 100 or 250 at the 1,000 price.
This volume buying works out good value and encourages you to select your varieties with care and get a good showing or massed grouping (I find buying in 10’s get a dot effect.)
Beware the Parker’s prices are quoted before VAT and there is a Â£4 small order surcharge.
More info and catalogue request at www.Dutchbulbs.co.uk

Gardeners Tips
J Parker also produce an Autumn wholesale catalogue and a variety of other vat inclusive catalogues during the year.
The paper is too glossy to go on my compost heap so I recycle old catalogues with our paper collection

Daffodils by robynejay CC BY-SA 2.0

Successful Staking for Perennials

June 12, 2012 hortoris

There is an art and a science to successfully staking your perennials and young plants. It can make a significant difference in a herbaceous border. Dahlias like space to themselves and can then produce a large individual plant, you may think these stakes are a bit optimistic.

How to Stake Perennials

Staking should be done when the plant is about two-thirds of its final size. This is often late April or May.

You need to judge how wide the plant will grow as well as how high.

Surround the plant with a ring of stakes about every 8-12 inches

If using Hazel stakes, weave the tops together to form a cage that the plant stems can grow through. Bought wire mesh can achieve the same effect and will be hidden when the plant completes its growth.

Cut the bottom of the stake at a sharp angle so it goes into the ground more easily.

The life of organic stakes can be increased if you shave off the bark and pith on the part of the stake that will be pushed into the ground.

Types of Stakes for Perennials

Birch, Willow and Hazel all make good stakes because they are pliable and twiggy.
Bamboo canes are popular and can last 2-3 seasons.
Plastic coated link stakes are designed to fix together. As long as the ground is even they work quickly
Do not forget garden twine to support the plant. I like to tie string across as well as round but that depends on the weight of plant material and flowers.
Tieing a stem to a single stake make a figure of eight loop around both to avoid cutting into the stem.

This picture above is of a large arching cage built to support a climbing flowering plant like a clematis support. There are no hard and fast rules for staking but try to make the end result unobtrusive.

Below is an angled stake for use where the wind is high and you want the tree or shrub to be able to sway around to build up strength.

Ten Plants for Sun Ten for Shade and Ten Tips

May 14, 2012 hortoris

You can grow in most kinds of light but some plants do better than others depending on the sun partial shade or available light. Knowing your conditions and matching them to the plants you use can increase the pleasure you get from gardening.
From a selection of thousands we give 10 plants for each light condition. Also below are our ‘Ten Tips about Light for Plants’

Ten Plants for Sun

Petunia are treated as annuals that flower prolifically in a sunny spot.
Passion flowers show there true colours in the sun
French Marigolds, Tagetes and African Marigolds are vibrant after being baked in the sunshine for 6 hours a day
Olive trees and Figs need both the light and heat from the sun.
Lavender flowers best in full sun and this helps the natural scented oils to develop.
Sunflowers and Viola family members are plants that turn there flower heads to the sun to maximise the light they get.
Already I have covered 10 plants for full sun but add Fuchsias, Carnations and Phlox for cottage garden splendor.

Ten Plants for Shade

Shade plants are less likely to have strong coloured flowers but Foxgloves give a good splash of colour.
In deep shade think of good leaf shape and form from plants like Ferns or Hostas
Dog woods or Cornus are grown for their coloured stems but also have small flowers
Hebe like the variety Green Globe have a fresh green appearance in shade.
Snowdrops in late winter followed by Dicentrica Bleeding Heart offer show colour in shade.
Asters and Camelias will tolerate shade but prefer partial shade.
Japanese Acers, Bay trees and Box are OK in shade.

Ten Tips about Light for Plants

All plants have an ideal exposure to light levels and ‘time in the sun’. Try to accommodate your best plants in appropriate areas.
As a rule of thumb 5 or more hours of direct sunlight is ‘full sun’, less than 2 hours is ‘shade’ and in between is ‘partial shade’.
No plants survive in total dark ( fungus and mushrooms may grow) but filtered dark will allow Ivy and Aspidistra to survive although probably not thrive.
Brightest coloured flowers are often those needing most sun but remember water also brings out the strength of colour.
Beware the shade created by taller plants and trees.
Shady areas can be quite dry so be prepared to water if needed. Most plants in shade like a fertile soil
Bought plants often have an indication on the label as to the amount of light/sun required. Read the label before you buy.
Dappled shade can be good for plants with ‘thin leaves’ like salad crops.
Compare other gardens to see what is planted where and how well plants do in shade or full sun.
Mediterranean and South African flowering plants generally enjoy sunny conditions at home so they expect that in our gardens

Low Maintenance Garden Shrubs and Trees

May 10, 2012 hortoris

Shrubs heathers and conifers are great for reducing the amount of maintenance needed in your garden. Big shrubs can cover larger areas with height and spread and need very little care and maintenance.

Small Conifer for Low Maintenance

The prostrate forms of Juniper are good looking all year round and available in greenish blue needles as well as the more traditional greens.
Rockery sized Pinus and slow growing conifers are useful for filling gaps and do not become thugs in the garden for at least 10 years. With no need to prune and 10 years untroubled growth you can see why I class them as low maintenance and I do not even bother to feed them.
When a conifer starts to out grow its position and reach for the sky I turf it out and start again. It is not worth the time pruning and trimming although some topiarists would strongly disagree.

Berberis can be low maintenance as the spines keep me away from the bush.

Weigelia Varigata

This shrub grows over six feet high and covers a four foot circumference. When in full flower it is very striking and the variegated leaves have interest through summer. It is easy to propagate from 12 inch long cuttings of semi ripe wood and it is a rapid grower reaching good proportions in two years. Other varieties like Bristol Ruby forsake variegated leaves for very strong coloured flowers in June and July with a late show if you cut off the old flowers but for low maintenance don’t bother.

Photinia Red Robin

This is a shrub that can be left to develop or trained up a single stem. It is part of a family of Photinias that include small trees. For this variety of Photinia fraseri five feet is a reasonable size but it will continue to grow to a hight and spread to 10 feet. The shiny evergreen leaves are bright red in spring and apart from the danger of a bit of frost to the new leaves the shrubs are hardy. Again I don’t prune my photinia but when it gets to large i will cut it back which will encourage more red leaves at the expense of flowers

Heather can be very effective ground cover with low maintenance needs. They do benefit from having a trim after flowering.

I find Osmanthus is slow growing and needs no pruning and little maintenance.

Growing and Pollinating Sweetcorn

May 5, 2012 hortoris

Sweetcorn is one of my favourite vegetables. Even when it comes out of a tin it is OK but fresh Sweetcorn boiled then smothered in butter is a treat that makes these plants well worth growing.

Planting Sweetcorn (Zea Mays).

Each seed is the shape and colour of a pip from a sweetcorn cob. They germinate quickly in warm conditions.
Sow seeds in mid spring 4 weeks before the last frost in your area.
Plant out 18in apart in blocks rather than rows when all danger of frost has passed,
Sweetcorn seed is available from Thompson & Morgan
If you try F1 hybrids don’t grow next to standard varieties or the cross pollination may cause the cobs to lose some of its sweetness.

Pollinating Sweetcorn and Growing On

Pollen from the male flowers, above, falls or is blown onto the female flowers or tassels, below, which when fertilised will form the cob.
To get good pollen distribution it is worth growing plants in square or rectangular blocks not long rows.
Hand pollination can be tried, dust female tassels with an open male flower or run your hand down the male flower and transfer the pollen onto the female tassels.
Once the silks or tassels start to form on the cobs regular watering is helpful.
To check that the cobs are ready to be picked pull back part of leaves covering them and squeeze one of the grains, if the liquid is thin and creamy, not watery, the cob is ready.

Sweetcorn Mini Vegetables

Miniature sweetcorn Minor produces tiny corn cobs for Chinese cooking and casseroles and crops in 64 days
The baby corn of Sweetcorn Minor are harvested before pollination just as the ‘silk tassels’ begin to show.
Sow seeds in mid spring 4 weeks before last expected frost in your area, singly Â½in deep in 3in pots of compost.
Plant out 4-5in apart in rows 8in apart when all danger of frost has passed in blocks of short rows rather than one long row.
A warm sheltered position in fertile, moist yet free draining soil is best.
Plants will still grow tall, the only thing miniature is the cobs.
Keep free of weeds and water regularly.
Harvest the tiny cobs when the silks first show above the husks. What you are harvesting is the immature corn on the cob.
Under ideal conditions each plant should bear 4-6 cobs. If you forget to harvest on time a normal sweet corn will be produced.

Eating Sweetcorn

Miniature cobs are ideal raw, steamed, stir fried or with dips.
Also very tasty cooked, then tossed in parsley butter or served with a cream sauce.
Maincrop Sweetcorn are good when barbecued or grilled.
Sweetcorn adds starch to chicken or fish soup.

There are ‘mini corn’, ‘super sweet’, ornamental and traditional sweetcorn varieties waiting for you to try.
I don’t recommend more than one variety per season to avoid cross pollination which makes the kernels tough and poor eating.

Tips for Tender Sweetcorn not Green Giant

Sowings should be kept warm and dark
Plants must be grown on in the warm & allowed to get to 4″ plus before being planted out.
Plant out in square blocks of say 7 by 7 plants so they can help pollinate one another
Plant with low growing beans or peas to provide nitrogen at the roots.
Give a feed of nitrogen when the tassels have formed
Test if the cob is ripe by pinching the top of the cob inside the protective leaves. If it is pointed it needs longer but if it is flat it is ripe.
The traditional ripeness test is to open and squeeze a kernel to see if it is milky
Eat sweetcorn soon after picking whilst the sugars are at there best

Credits
“Peaches and Cream | 191/365 by mfhiatt CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
flickr.com/4074/4850146990_2196ec5d68. and /4120/4850147310_da417ac2b8.
sweetcorn – mini pop by Lucy Crosbie CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Waterlogged Garden

May 2, 2012 tejvan

The recent heavy rain has left even my relatively sandy soil waterlogged.

I don’t think too much damage will occur, I could have got the fork out to help drainage, but it should be OK.

Waterlogged garden

Tulips look really nice after rain.

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