There are a lot of earwigs around this year or so it seems. Typical in a year when I had decided to grow more dahlias than usual but I guess the earwigs must have known that and got on with early breeding.
Facts about Earwigs
Earwigs chew on live shoots, flowers or decaying vegetation and like damp secluded conditions.
In my garden they do most noticeable damage on Chrysanthemums and Dahlias.
Earwigs are attracted to lights when they move around at dusk and nighttime.
Females lay between 30 and 50 small, round, translucent eggs.
Some Control Tips
Good housekeeping, dry areas and removing leaf litter restricts an earwigs desired living conditions
Placing hollow canes around dahlias act as a trap as can grass clippings or mulch removed regularly
Soapy water sprays or chemical formulas can reduce infestations
Club root is a fungal infection of brassicas that causes distorted, swollen roots and stunted growth. Your cabbage seedlings and Broccoli, Cauliflower, Calabrese Sprouts and Kale can all be prone to club root but especially your cabbages.
Club Root Tip
Start plants off in larger than normal pots say 4-5 inches. This gives plants a good head start and they can be planted out surrounded by safe uncontaminated compost. Line the planting hole with a rhubarb leaf to improve the effectiveness of this method. That seems counter intuitive when you would lime the soil as a normal safeguard and the rhubarb leaf in acidic in nature but it works.
I bet you spotted my weed as soon as you looked at the picture. ‘Where’s Wally’ you may ask, well he is the gardener that not only let the dandelion flower but seed as well. Back to gardening school. Depending how you look at it there has been a great profusion of dandelions this year but you just wait until next year. The ‘clocks’ have been distributed far and wide since the beginning of May, the breezes were light, the conditions just right and the air and ponds filled with seeds so dandelions are not going to be a threatened species anytime soon!
One dandelion may be excusable but what about your sweetpea zone you may be asking? My excuse for all the self sown seedlings from last years dark purple poppies include that I found the poppy so entrancing. I fully expected to transplant them into a suitable area but tempus fugit (a good name for a weed). I have other excuses on request.
Plants in your garden can suffer from infections caused by many different viruses. Once a plant is infected there is no chemical treatment that will destroy the virus without also killing the plant.
Signs of Virus Infection
Irregular white or yellow mottling on normally green leaves such as rings, mosaic patterns or other mottling.
Distorted leaves with curling and or crinkling
Malformed flowers, damaged fruit and early leaf fall.
Once a plant is infected the plant may be stunted and unable to produce flower or fruit.
Some plants are just carriers and do not demonstrate symptoms other suffer from wilt disease.
More About Viruses on Plants
Viral infections are generally transmitted from plant to plant by insects such as aphids, thrips, whitefly, eelworms, and some beetles.
Some control can be provided by keeping these pests at bay.
Viruses can be prevalent and long lasting in soil.
Each virus is plant species specific and some varieties are more prone than others. Potato blight decimates crops, tomato mosaic virus damages fruit, cucumbers suffer as do many flowering plants e.g. carnations, roses and chrysanthemum.
Plum pox potyvirus the variants of which causes Sharka the viral disease of stone fruit crops.
Yorkshire has suffered an exceptionally wet autumn culminating in disastrous floods at Fishlake and around the river Don. One plant that will thrive in these wet northerly conditions is our old friend Moss. As this has been covered before I am just using this post to link you to other observations and tips about moss.
Liverworts are a relative of moss as is the green lichen on theses trees.
Moss is a dense low growing mat of greenery that affects badly drained lawns. It is too short to be cut by a mower but a lawn that itself is cut too short can attract moss instead of grass. Feed the lawn with a weed and feed fertiliser or use lawn sand containing a moss killer. Scarify and improve drainage by forking over the lawn. Moss can absorb nitrogen dioxide and fight against air pollution
I am not a great fan of ferns as I live too near moorland that shares its bounty with gay abandon and I spend significant time removing uninvited guests. These are usually Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum) or Buckler-fern (Dryopteris
dilatata) with fronds that are arranged like a shuttlecock. There are some exceptions such as the Hart’s tongue (Asplenium scolopendrium) and the Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes) shown in this wall. The strap like fronds and pinnate rectangular leaflet fronds make a simple feature on this mossy wall.
Ferns Favourite Locations
Due to the microscopic airborne spores British species of ferns can grow in many unusual places such as rocky habitats.
Woodland ferns such as Dryopteris species are easy and accommodating in the garden.
The striking Osmunda regalis aka The Royal Fern prefers a wetland area.
There are several ferns suitable for ground cover and a selection can be found on the native fern website
With clear blue skies and good blossom spring 2019 started so well for my plums. But then many things began to go wrong. The first disaster was a snap frost that did for my Victoria blossom. Fortunately another variety of plum flowers a bit later, is better sheltered and survived unaffected by frost. That didn’t save the crop from the fungal attack of ‘brown rot’.
More on Plum Problems
Plum fruit infected with Monilinia laxa have grey coloured pustules. This fungus can also be responsible for end of stem wilt.
Plums infected with Monilinia fructigena have pustules that are buff coloured.
It looks like I might be blessed with both fungal infections.
Brown rot survives on mummified fruit and small cankers on the tree. It passes quickly on to other fruit in the cluster particularly in moist weather.
There is no spray available to gardeners so I will have to improve my hygiene and collect up and burn or bury deeply all infected twigs and fruit.
Unhappy with previous years crops I had invested in a new victoria plum tree and I will hope for more success in years to come.
I was picking the Czar plums to make more jam when a wasp was disturbed from eating it’s lunch. Wasps go for my plums just as they are at their sweetest best. My problem was I couldn’t see which plums had a wasp in the fruit if they were above head height or facing away from my hand. The resulting sting set me on the trail of other stingers in the garden.
Who has not been stung by a common nettle or the stinging nettle a herbaceous perennial aka Urtica dioica. More likely to be stung walking on country paths or unkempt areas not in your garden I am sure!
The nettle family are stinging plants with hairs on leaves or stems that are capable of injecting formic acid that cause pain or irritation. Brushing bare skin against the leaves causes initial pain with the potential for more effects caused by histamine, acetylcholine and other chemicals that are also present.
Giant hogweed contains a corrosive sap that causes severe rashes, burns and even serious eye damage if you get the photosensitive chemicals in your eyes . aka Heracleum mantegazzianum.
Poison ivy & its cousin, poison oakone is a noted rash-maker. It’s toxin, urushiol oil, is in the sap of the plant and present in minuscule quantities in some other food stuff.
Other plants, often those with hairs or irritating sap, can cause irritation and allergic reactions. I suffer with some verbascum Optunia cacti and euphorbia.
I do not want to start by worrying you but I am probably going too anyway! After an early summer of brilliant rose displays the down side is the number and volume of enemies our roses are having to contend with.
This is Nothing New
I am borrowing heavily from the National Rose Society publications including the title of this post ‘The Enemies of the Rose.’
The national rose society’s handbook on the insect, pests and fungus of the rose was first published in 1908 – over a century ago.
My copy is the third edition from 1952. I can’t find a more recent edition nor current reprints. Old copies surface at secondhand booksellers and are crammed with over 150 pages of problems.
For example the contents include a virtual dozen references to a variety of different Sawfly but I get ahead of myself.
The evils of modern publishing have created a digitised Kindle 2012 edition (? scanned?) and it may be worth the 99p down load but it seems at variance to the older books.
The collective brains of an Entomologist, Zoologistand an expert in Cryptogams have been combined with 110 years of horticulture experience and specialist knowledge.
Picking Out Some Rose Enemies
I will not try to paraphrase or emulate the original record but will pick out bits worth further exploration.
Fungi and bacteria are classified as ‘Diseases’ and insects and sundry creatures as ‘Pests’.
Sadly developments over time plus health and safety worries have made many of the cures, potions, treatments, unctions, chemical controls and interventions illegal, outdated or unobtainable.
I am not sure whether Defra, European Union and sundry Ministries such as Agriculture should be classed as ‘The Enemies of the Rose.’
Bad health in what ever form is potentially just a sign of a rose failing to achieve the growers ideals and aspirations.
Setting standards is essential but being able to cope with the consequences of weather, breeding, growing conditions and external influences can all be enemies of roses.
Pests include: thrips, aphids, leaf-hopper, caterpillar, rose maggots, chafer, leaf miner, sawfly, leaf cutter, gall wasps, ants, mites and other maggots and bugs.
Diseases include: black spot, rust, mildew, leaf scorch, anthracnose, cancker & die back, botrytis (grey mould), gall, silver leaf, chlorosis, sooty mould and variations on the virus and fungus themes.
Another digitised version . The Enemies of the Rose by George Massee Frederick Vincent 1868- Theobald National Rose Society (Creator)…