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Author: hortoris

Rose Replant Sickness Causes & Cures

Rose Replant Sickness Causes & Cures

Peace Rose

Old Parks Gardeners have known for many years that to replace a bed of Roses in the same place is asking for problems. New plants become sickly before they get a chance to become established and you can loose a lot of time and money trying to put new roses in the place of old.

How is Rose Sickness Caused

  • No one seems certain why roses get sick if they are planted where old roses used to be. One possible cause is nematodes that the old roses have learnt to tolerate.
  • I believe it is more likely to be fungal growth around the roots.
  • Root exudates contain allelochemicals and when concentration becomes very high, after the roses have been in the soil for several years, they adversely effect new plants.
  • Roses are gross feeders and soil which becomes impoverished will highlight other plant weaknesses.


Common Cures and Treatments for Rose Sickness

  • If you are replanting roses exchange the soil with fresh soil that hasn’t grown roses before. An area 2′ square and deep will be needed so it might be easier to relocate the bed for new plants.
  • It may help to grow and dig-in a crop of Tagettes or french marigolds if the soil is generally in good health. I would also add lots of manure and   humus for roses.
  • Another method for small numbers of Roses is to sink an old carboard box filled with fresh soil and plant in that. By the time the cardboard degrades, the rose sickness should have gone or the Rose be strong enough to resist problems.
  • The only product against rose sickness is Rootgrow, a beneficial mycorrhizae, fungus which adheres to the new Rose roots. It should allow the plant access to moisture and nutrients from a wider area of soil thereby increasing the early vigour.

Try Just Joey when planting new roses

Forcing Flower Bulbs

Forcing Flower Bulbs

A bowl of flowering bulbs can be delightful in the depths of winter and you can force them to flower as early as Christmas.

Conditions for Forcing

  • Bulbs need at least 4″ of compost for root development and good drainage in the pot.
  • Forced bulbs need a period in the cold at 7-9º Centigrade.
  • Dark conditions are also best
  • If there is no suitable indoor space the pots can be buried outdoors in soil that is not too wet.

Timing for Forcing

  • Plant the bulbs from 1st September until December. The earlier the start the earlier the flower.
  • Short cooling periods equal short stumpy flowers, too long cooling will produce excessively long flower stems.
  • After cooling, bring bulbs into the warmth and they will flower in 2-3 weeks.
Bulb Planting Date No Weeks Chilled
Hyacinth prepared 15.09 -15.12 10-12
Hyacinth unprepared 15.10 -01.12 11-13
Tulip

Blenda, Prominence

Arma, Yellow Present

 01.10-01.12 14-15

15-17
Daffodil

Tete-a-Tete

Carlton

 01.10-01.12 12-13

14-15
Crocus 01.10-01.11 14-15
Iris Reticula 01.10-01.11 12-13
Muscari 01.10-01.11 14-15

Amaryllis and Paperwhite Daffodils ( Tazeta narcissi) can be put straight into a warm room and do not need the chilling process. Hyacinths can be chilled at slightly warmer temperatures than other bulbs.

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Quick Tips for Roses In June

Quick Tips for Roses In June

Peace Rose

This year my roses are a good bit later to come into full bloom. The cold snap in May undoubtedly caused problems.

A white rugarosa type had all the buds ‘browned off’ by a late frost and guess what colour that left me  -  ‘browned off too’!

Tips for June

  • Deadhead repeat flowering roses to get a second flush. Flowering may stop when seed is set.
  • Cut above the first leaf node and angled away from the leaf.
  • Do not deadhead roses you grow for the hips such as Rugarosa types.
  • If you have any blackspot wash your secateurs between each plant to avoid spreading the disease.
  • Check for suckers, track them back to the roots and pull them off neatly. Cutting them may leave a bit of sucker and you will get two suckers from that one spot.
  • If you are troubled by Aphids, and who isn’t, then use your favourite treatment. I have just organically squashed quite a large crop on the buds of my climber roses.

Getting Bigger Blossoms

  • If exceptional blooms are required nip out the side buds and leave one bud per stem to develop fully. All the energy gets channeled this way.

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Red and Green in the Garden

Red and Green in the Garden

Colourful Tips on garden colour wheel.

Geum

Red and green are complementary colours that draw plenty of compliments in the right setting. This Geum looks better against the green leaves than it does waving around on its long stems (although it is fine then as well).

Poppy

Another moody shot of a red Oriental poppy against it’s slightly greener leaves. For great artistic paintings you can’t beat red poppies and green leaves.

Hibiscus

Perhaps it is the yellow stamens that catch the eye on this Hibiscus but the glossy green leaves are also a major part of the charm.

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Wild Flower Bed with Companion Plants

Wild Flower Bed with Companion Plants

Meadow

An effective way to use wild flowers  is to mix in some trusted garden plants. Using some  trusted garden stand-bys will provide extra colour and structure to a wild area.

Plants to Support Wild Flower Beds

  • After the Aconites, Snowdrops and Marsh Marigolds the first blooms may be from Primroses or Day Lilies followed by Dianthus to give a mix of vibrant colour.
  • Evening Primrose has yellow bell shaped flowers. Oenothera tetragona flowers in spring on reddish green stems, Oenothera missouriensis  later in the year
  • Campanula the blue white or sometimes pink Bellflower can also look good.
  • Foxgloves give height and structure and you could add some Delphiniums.
  • For some white flowers choose Sneezewort ‘Acillea ptarmica’, Candytuft , Ox-eye daisy or Anthemis punctata
  • Heliopsis, Rudbeckia and Achillea are good looking yellows.
  • Cranesbill geraniums and Columbines can also complement wild flowers.

Wild Flowers

  • You can buy seed mixtures aimed at different locations such as Cornfield mix and others from Thompson & Morgan
  • Many individual plants appeal as wild flowers particularly the daisy and buttercups. Still more wild flowers are scented.
  • The red Poppy is potentially one of the most popular varieties and I would opt for Papaver rhoeas.
  • Wild Orchids are harder to grow but if you have the patience they can be rewarding
  • See also Wild Seed Suppliers
  • Do not forget the humble Dandelion in various leaf forms.

Tips on Wild Seed Sowing

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Growing Helianthemum Rock Roses

Growing Helianthemum Rock Roses

Rock Rose

This alpine species are hardy, colourful and trouble-free. Growing in rock crevices or alpine meadows Helianthemum have been given a common name of Rock Rose but they will grow in many garden situations.

They are part of the Cistacea family which contains over 100 species see Growing Cistus.

Propagation

  • Plants from seeds can produce some very interesting forms due to cross pollination but germination rates tend to be low .
  • The majority of Helianthemum’s are propagated from cuttings as this is the quickest, easiest and method.
  • In summer take your 2-3″ cutting from young growth just below a leaf for optimum rooting.
  • Cuttings may take 6 months before being ready to pot on or plant out

Cultivation

  • Prune straight after flowering to keep in shape and possibly get a second flush of flowers.
  • Helianthemum normal growing conditions are on chalk land so add a small amount of lime to the soil mixture.
  • Water young potted plants regularly in dry weather for optimal growth.
  • Rock roses are neat little plants with upright foliage and are easy to grow on banks, rockeries, the edge of borders and containers.

Selection from 200 Cultivars of Helianthemum nummularium

Plants for Walls

Plants for Walls

Campanula

I am fortunate to have a boundary wall that has two skins of stone filled with soil. This makes an habitat for plants that I can use to grow something a bit different.

The Pros & Cons of a Filled Wall.

  • The wall raises the working height and brings plants nearer to eye level.
  • The soil is of poor quality as goodness is leached away. This suits some alpines and nasturtiums.
  • Due to holes somewhere the soil washes out in some spots and I am always looking to refill or stop the leak.
  • The wall is dry and gets hot in the sun although the stone provides some cooler protection for roots.
  • Slugs do not like to climb the wall (just send gardeners up it)

    • wall plants

    Suitable Plant Types for Walls

    • Dry condition lovers and sun seekers like Thyme
    • Plants that like a baking like Pulsatilla
    • Plants that hold there own water store like Sedums and Houseleeks.
    • Alpines and similar plants with long roots.
    • Trailing plants and poor soil plants.

    Pasque Flower

    Some Plants recommended by Cambridge University Gardening services site
    Crassula sarcocaulis
    Helichrysum ‘Sulphur Light’
    Sedum acre
    Sempervivum ciliosum
    Saxifraga species …

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    Yellow and Sickly Leaves caused by Chlorosis

    Yellow and Sickly Leaves caused by Chlorosis

    Acid deficiency

    Yellow sickly leaves on acid loving plants is called ‘chlorosis’. It is a nutrition problem as the plant is inhibited from getting the nutrients from the soil. It is easiest to think of it as an Iron or acid deficiency.

    Plants affected by Yellowing Leaves

    • Rhododendrons often suffer if the soil is not sufficiently acidic as the picture shows. Eventually the leaves then the shrub dies.
    • Chlorosis in fruit trees is a gradual yellowing of the tissue between the veins of younger leaves will occur while the veins themselves stay green.
    • Azalea, Laurel, Maples, Oaks and other ericaceous plants can show symptoms of chlorosis.
    • Tomato chlorosis crinivrus is a yellowing of leaves but is cause by a virus introduced by white fly. Control the insects and feed the plants.
    • Yellowing leaves on houseplants can be due to overwatering. If your plant has been sitting in water it’s time to let it dry out.

    Cures for Chlorosis

    • Water with a liquid feed of ‘Sequestrene’ which is designed for such plants.
    • Fertilizers that contain chelated iron, manganese and magnesium will help improve the colour and health of leaves and plants available from Thompson Morgan
    • ‘Sequestrene’ Granular Iron Tonic is for acid-loving ericaceous plants. It provides iron in a chelated form which can easily be taken up in any soil.
    • Foliar Sprays may be effective as a temporary measure, spray when the symptoms are first noticed with a ferrous sulphate solution.
    • Peat, ericaceaous compost or applications of acid fertilizers, such as ammonium sulphate may help mild cases of iron chlorosis.
    • Do not lime the soil.
    • Treatment the soil directly with flowers of sulphur to lower the pH to 5.5

    Buy Chempack for acid lovers

    Growing Hesperis matronalis Alba

    Growing Hesperis matronalis Alba

    Hesperis matronalis Alba

    Hesperis is a hardy biennial that flowers in blue, purple or white. It is easy to grow from seed and flowers through summer.

    • The main charm is the scent that you get in an evening from the masses of 18″-36″ high plants.
    • Ideal for the middle of borders, Cottage Gardens, Wild Gardens or a Wildlife Garden.
    • Charming large spikes of single flowers attract hoverflies and insects.

    Sowing and Growing Instructions

    • Optimum Germination Temperature: 60-65F (15-18C).
    • Sowing Depth: 1/8 Inch (3 mm).
    • Sow in late spring/early summer  thin out or  plant out in their flowering positions in early autumn.
    • Space the plants 30cm (12in) apart in full sun or part shade.
    • Plants self-sow freely in good soil.

    Seeds are available to plant now from Thompson Morgan

    Tips for Growing Phlox paniculata

    Tips for Growing Phlox paniculata

    Phlox paniculata

    Phlox is a perfect perennial plant, perpetually pleasing people. It is easy to improve your Phlox performance.

    Tips for getting good Phlox flowers.

    • On mature clumps of Phlox thin out any  congested, woody stems.
    • Thinning out improves subsequent flowers and increases air flow.
    • After a good rain, mulch around your Phlox to conserve moisture.
    • Phlox responds to the Chelsea chop – cut some of your Phlox back by a half at the end of May. You will then get lush growth and later flowers.
    • I feed with a slow release fertilizer like Growmore in early spring.

    Mildew Problems

    • Phlox are prone to mildew but it won’t kill the plant – Phlox will come back next year.
    • Water stress is a main cause of Phlox mildew so water the roots, avoid splashing the leaves and mulch as above.
    • Lack of air circulation is another cause of mildew.
    • In Autumn tidy up all fallen leaves.
    • Mildew attacks young sappy growth so do not over fertilize with nitrogen.

    Phlox paniculata

    For more Perennial Favourites
    Read more about how to grow Annual Phlox
    To achieve the pinnacle of success for Phlox see more