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Category: Garden Design

Design, landscaping construction and layouts. Special types of garden and notable design features

Greenhouse Tools and Equipment

Greenhouse Tools and Equipment

Good Ventilation

You need at least one roof ventilator and one side ventilator to get good air changes. The roof ventilator is the most important for allowing hot air to escape. Windows at both sides of the greenhouse can be beneficial. Louvered windows are very useful as they are easy to operate and I find hinged windows less stable in wind. Automatic ventilators are available that open the window using a plunger system. Obviously the door is a great ventilator and should be left open when temperatures reach 80 degrees or humidity is 100%. I have never needed an extractor fan but for a large greenhouse a slow moving fan can help some crops.

Temperature Control

A max/min thermometer should be suspended near to greenhouse plants at eye level on the northside of the greenhouse. Digital or traditional versions are available.

Insulation by plastic double glazing on a simple frame will help heating costs but cut down on the suns rays. Bubble wrap is another product to consider and if that cuts down on too much light it can be restricted to the north wall.

A warm greenhouse needs minimum temperatures of 55° F, a cool greenhouse may only need heating in winter to retain 45° F. Electric fan heaters are the popular choice as they also help move air around and you don’t need to move fuel around. Paraffin heaters are cheaper to buy and run but they produce water vapour that can encourage grey mould. Similar issues arise with bottled gas heaters. Piped hot water is a luxury but apart from the cost of installation there are few draw backs.

I also have an under soil electric heating cable for starting seeds and cuttings. They put heat exactly where you want it and are economic to run.

Staging and Shelving

Benches or stages are needed to be able to work at a comfortable height and increase the working area as you can use underneath. Wooden slats, mesh or solid benches are available. I use slats on a bench down the north edge of the greenhouse. A collapsible shelve allows you to grow more tomatoes when spring plants are finished.

I have an alluminium frame greenhouse and there is a neat plastic device that fits anywhere there is a bar. It allows you to string or suspend from. This cedar greenhouse from Alton looks good and shows ventilation and staging

My Plant Partners

My Plant Partners

Combining plants in different ways is one of the joys of successful gardening. Different shapes and textures or bold colour schemes may be the trigger to make a combination work and there are companion plants that encourage growth in others. These wine red and white cyclamen produced a great contrast on their own but combined with the winter heather and the brown fallen leaves they were putting on a regal show in a local churchyard.

Recommended Plant Partnerships

  • A Chinese whitebeam tree, Sorbus hupehensis unfolds sea-green ferny leaves in spring with white flowers in summer. Its beauty can be enhanced by underplanting with the arching Berberis x rubostilla.
  • For autumn contrasts try Acer palmatum’s red leaves with a variegated Holly like Ilex Madame Briot.
  • For a silver leaved collection try Lavender Hidcote, Artemesia Lambrook Silver with Dianthus Mrs Sinkins. To highlight the combination have an old fashioned Gallica red rose as a centre piece.
  • Euonymus radicans and the smaller Eythronium White Beauty have pleasing yellow and white contrasts.
  • A couple of dogwoods can look striking in winter. Try cornus alba Sibirica red and the yellow stemed cornus stolonifera. Prune them hard in spring.
  • A rose like Queen Elizabeth can have its leggy stems surrounded by Rosemary or Lavender or even small violas.
  • Hostas and Primula japoinica or Harlow Carr hybrids both like waterside conditions and thrive together. Hostas with yellow-green leaves also go well in front of smoke bushes Cotinus coggygria
Coloured Leaf and Leaves

Coloured Leaf and Leaves

Before the Autumn leaf colours start to invade our senses I am just recapping on the leaves that have made an impact for me this summer.

Outdoor Leaves

  • Coleus is a colourful exhibitionist of a plant. A whole range of colours can be combined on one or two plants like the assembly in the above plant pot.
  • Cotinus coggygria, the Smoke Bush, has been one of my favourites this summer with the royal purple leaves acting as a back drop to paler coloured leaves particularly of various grey foilaged plants.
  • Cineraria Maritima has provided the grey and blue grey interest for several darker corners. With the poor summer I have not had any of the straggly yellow flowers to steal any thunder.
  • Zonal Geranuims vary in the amount of colouring they carry but some varieties are grown for the shades in the leaf. The plant in the photo below has yellow, bronze and greens in separate banding on the variegated leaves.

gera

Indoor Leaves

  • After many year and too many alcoholic drinks the Apidistra in our local pub has gone to the great brewery compost heap in the sky. Still my wife is Cast Iron in her belief that it was a boring plant.
  • Begonia rex on the other hand have contorted leaves withribs of many colours.
  • Codiaeum variegated plants have come hot foot and hot colours to the fore in recent seasons.
  • It may be cheating to include the coloured bracts in cream, pink and notably red of the Pionsettia but with Christmas coming I do not think you will hold it against me.

Gardeners Tip – Use coloured leaves in some areas as an alternative to flowers when designing your garden layout.
You do not need flowers to produce colour in your houseplants. In addition to Begonia Rex and its relatives why not try growing some Codiaeum, an easy to maintain leafy plant.

Codiaeum

Codiaeums are interesting foliage house plants also called Joseph’s Coat.

Codiaeum Cultivation Tips

  • This variety is called ‘Petra’ but you may also find ‘Eugene Drapps’ with long lance shaped leaves almost entirely yellow.
  • Keep plants moist and in good light with a temperature of at least 60-70° F.
  • Root 6 inch cuttings taken from the top of the plant at 70° with a bit of bottom heat.
  • Plants can be encouraged to branch by pinching out the growing tip.
  • Frequent feeding is needed except in winter when growth slows.
  • Large plants will have lots of roots so it may be worth potting up a size using loam based compost.
  • Red spider mite can be a problem with Codiaeums
  • Without good light but not full scorching sun the colouring will not be as strong and bottom leaves may be shed.

Codiaeum Madiera

Garden Wind Problems

Garden Wind Problems

wind swept

Trees shrubs even small plants react to wind. The example of this Yew tree is a bit extreme but you can see the effect of a strong prevailing wind.

Problems Caused By Wind

  • Plants may grow on a slant, leaning away from the wind. This inhibits growth and plants will not reach their full potential.
  • Shrubs and trees  may be distorted not growing  leaves or branches on the windward side.
  • Intermittent wind can cause plants to bend, then grow straight giving stems a twisted or crooked appearance.
  • Wind can be energy sapping for gardeners, so too for plants that have to live in the conditions.
  • ‘Wind rock’ making plants sway at ground level loosens the roots of shrubs like roses and can kill.
  • Strong wind can ‘burn’ young foliage.
  • Strong wind can uproot or blow down trees and plants.

wind swept

Prevent and Cure Wind Problems

  • It seems easy but do not plant in windy locations. If you must, be prepared for wind problems when choosing plants. Opt for low growers, hardy plants and shrubs with an open habit that allows wind to blow through.
  • Use natural barriers as wind breaks. Use hollows, walls, hedges and buildings to create a wind shadow.
  • Stake and tie plants.
  • Protect with barriers such as netting
  • Accept the results of wind damage, it is natural after all.

 

Primary Coloured Spring Bulbs & Primula Bed

Primary Coloured Spring Bulbs & Primula Bed

If you are looking for a show stopping display of spring flowers then why not try planting   primary colours of Red, Blue and Yellow in the same bed.

A sweeping display of blocks of colour contrasting with the other primary colours can have a stunning effect. Over planting with primary-coloured annuals will help the design continue through summer. This list starts off with bulbs in the primary colours but you can use whatever takes your fancy,  as you will see, I like Polyanthus.

More Primula seeds from Thompson & Morgan

Reds mainly Tulips

  • Small early red Tulips are Daylight and Show-winner.
  • For elegant Tulip shapes try Fosteriana Red Emperor, Charles or the more muted Rosy Dream.
  • Abba and Carlton are doubles to sing about.
  • Appledorn, Hollands Glory and Red Impressions remind you where most tulips come from but Barbados is a stunning fringed red to add to your selection.

Blues avoiding Purples

  • Muscari Azureum or other Grape Hyacinths are some of the best blues. I like Blue Spike, Super Star and Valerie Finnis.
  • Hyacinths, Crystal Palace, Blue Star, Delft Blue, Ostara and Kronos are just some of the blue varieties to try. Personally I would not bother with the yellow Hyacinths such as City of Harlem
  • Camassia, Chinodoxa and Anemone ‘Lord Lieutenant’  are varied bulbs flowering blue.
  • Dutch Iris are some of the finest blue flowers, Hildegard and Sapphire Blue. Iris reticulata, Joyce and Cantab are also well worth growing.

Yellow Aconites to Zantedeschia

  • For something a bit different try yellow Iris Danfordiae, Fritilliaria Raddena or Ixia Yellow Emperor.
  • Crocus species Chrysanthus Dorothy, Fuscotinclus and Romance are small yellow crocus whilst Golden Mammoth is just what it says, Golden and Mammoth.
  • Jonquilla Daffodills grow to about one foot and bloom freely. Baby Moon, Trevithian and the double Pencrebar are worth trying.
  • King Alfred did more than burn the cakes he had ‘the’ yellow Daffodil named after him.
  • Tamara, Carlton and Fortune are worthy substitutes
Seedheads for Display and Drying

Seedheads for Display and Drying

Allium seeds

 

Alliums produce some of the most interesting seedheads. Each capsule is about to burst on this Allium cristophii (AGM) sending dozens of hard black seeds to perpetuate the family.

There are over a thousand species of Allium or onion and this is one of the most eye-catching of them all both in flower and in seed. Large flowered Alliums should be planted in groups of odd numbers to enhance the effect. They like a sunny site where it will tolerate competition from other roots. Each spherical flower-head helps create a perfect ball shape. The complete stem will last for many weeks as part of a dried flower arrangement.

Other Plants to Grow for their Seed Heads

  • Pampass Grass (Cortaderia selloana) for the large fluffy plumes and a whole range of other grasses
  • Teasels (Dipsacus) to feed the birds and to catch the frost
  • Honesty for the shimmering white seed heads
  • Iris Foetidissma for the red berries bursting out of the seed pod
  • Paeonia lactiflora for the red furry seed head
  • Zea Mais, Mexican Corn on the cob for the multi-coloured cobs after drying
  • Papaver, Phlomis fruticosa, Phlomis samia/russelliana, Phormium tenax are also recommended by the gardener

Book Cover

Create a Stumpery from Tree Roots and Stumps

Create a Stumpery from Tree Roots and Stumps

Stumpery - Biddulph Grange Garden - Biddulph

The objective of a Stumpery is to create a garden feature from ferns, logs and old tree roots. The Victorians started a trend to build Rooteries, Ferneries and Stumperies as romantic woodland places to grow exotic ferns and woodland plants. If you have a dark corner or want to collect ferns then you could start your own Stumpery quite easily and add to it as the fancy takes you.

Construction of a Stumpery

  • Old trees are the basic raw material.
  • Up rooted tree stumps like those after a big storm or pulled out by chains form a great base
  • Gnarled and twisted shapes work well to create form and shape
  • Just cutting trees down to stumps can be enough in a small garden
  • If you live in or near the countryside finding logs and tree stumps should be relatively easy.
  • In a suburban gardens a few pieces of trunk from felled sycamore can form the basis for a mini-stumpery.
  • Drift wood old branches or any wood artfully arranged can also be used
  • Bark chippings can unite the feel for the area

Eco-Friendly Stumps

  • Different wild life to that found in tidy gardens love stumperies.
  • Fungus can thrive on decaying wood and moist conditions.
  • Insects and small mammals have a place to hide, feed and multiply

Plant Up with some Ferns

  • Mosses and lichen can be encouraged by painting uncovered surfaces with yoghurt
  • Ferns should be planted in spaces between stumps and roots. They like dark places without fertiliser but some leaf mold can be added to the soil.
  • Chose a variety of ferns for shape, size and colour.
  1. Matteuccia Ostrich feather fern upto 3 feet
  2. Dyopterarias erythrosora has elegant fronds that emerge bright orange and change to lime-green as they age.
  3. Harts Tongue fern Phylitis has a smoother leaf and sword shape
  4. Athyriums like the Japanese painted fern (niponicum pictum,) and Lady fern are smaller but can  light up very dark places.
  5. Adiantum pedatum is a small maidenhair fern with a fragile appearance but a hardy nature. It has a running rootstock that quickly makes a respectable clump.
  • Snowdrops, celandines,primroses and foxgloves may grow well in semi shaded areas or on the edge of the Stumpery.
  • If planting Bluebells make sure they are the native kind not the hybrid or Spanish variety

More information on Ferns is available on http://www.ferns.com/

Photograph of Stumpery at Biddulph Grange Garden – Biddulph by westher, on Flickr under creative commons license.

What is a Coronary Garden

What is a Coronary Garden

memorial

A Coronary Garden was more popular in late Victorian times but as I discovered it goes back beyond the 17th century.
Coronary gardens were  used to grow flowers that could be used for wreaths and garlands and take their name Coronary from the word crown not the health problem.

The modern day equivalent is probably the florist shop or stall located at Crematoria

This photograph is not a true Coronary garden but a memorial garden in front of the cenotaph at Otley.

Tips for the Coronary Garden (1686)

  • Do not separate off sets from Tulips until they are quite dry.
  • Cotton Lavender makes a foot high hedge or border if kept well clipped.
  • A layer of stable litter under the soil that is planted with Tulips, Anemonies and Ranunculus will help them thrive. They my survive without lifting.
  • To grow Stock Gillyflowers chose a plant with excellent double flowers. Make it beare one branch of flowers and collect the seed. Sow in February in the hot bed and transplant in Michaelmas (September).

Note about Stock Gillyflower. – I originally took it to mean Carnation or Pinks of the Dianthus family but other plant dictionaries include stocks like Matthiola incana, or say stock gillyflower is the Cheiranthus; the queen’s gillyflower is the Hesperis or even any of several Old World plants cultivated for their brightly colored flowers.

Wordswarmnet Dictionary for Stock Gilly Flower

Plants for the Coronary Garden

  • Lilies in red, white, Crown Imperial or Persian.
  • Tulips, Crocus, Narcissus or Anemonie for spring
  • Snap dragons, Sweet Williams and Gladiolus
  • Iris and Fritillaries.
  • Daisies, Pansies and Violets
  • Various annuals or exotics like Amaranthus and Heliotrop.

The tips and flower selection have been taken from ‘ Directions for The Gardiner at Says- Court in 1686’. They were published in a wider more embracing form in ‘Directions for the Gardiner and Other Horticultural Advice’ by John Evelyn the diarist and OUP available via Amazon

The original manuscript was first transcribed in 1932 by Sir Geoffrey Keynes

Book Cover

Yorkshire Gardens Top 10 Visits

Yorkshire Gardens Top 10 Visits

Wentworth Castle 122

Cornwall and the west coast of Scotland have some fine temperate gardens well worth a visit but Yorkshire has the grandeur of the stately home garden.

Starting with an old site a must visit is Yorkshire’s first World Heritage Site, Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal a huge estate of beauty, contrasts and surprises including the largest abbey ruins in the country and one of England’s most spectacular Georgian water gardens.

Castle Howard’s 1,000 acres of Gardens are stunning whatever the time of year, and visitors can find peace and tranquility whichever path they choose. Delightful walks reveal in turn hidden glades and breathtaking views with Azaleas, Rhododendrons and Magnolias to dream about.

RHS Harlow Carr the northern mecca for Royal Horticultural Society members there is much to learn and see with the upgraded facilities now on display. I am looking forward to the opening of a new library in 2010.

Parcevall Hall Gardens, up in the true dales on a steep hillside near Appletreewick, are planted with many specimen trees and shrubs collected from Western China and the Himalayas. Far from main roads this is a retreat in more senses than one.

Helmsley Walled Garden and Duncombe Park can be visited as one but the Parkland was closed when I last visited. The walled garden dating back to 1758, and set against the spectacular backdrop of Helmsley Castle was more than enough to hold my interest.

Thorpe Perrow Arboretum is open all year and has 85 bacres of woodland walks and a display of Falcons and other birds of prey. Look out for spring bulbs and blossom or wait for the autumn foliage.

Ripley Castle has been in the Ingleby family for 700 years but is now open to the public. The walled kitchen garden contains an extensive herb bed and an extraordinary collection of rare vegetables. The pleasure grounds contain a collection of specimen trees from around the world and thousands of spring flowering bulbs, daffodils, narcissi, snowdrops, aconites and bluebells.

York Gate is a one-acre garden tucked away behind the ancient church in Adel that is opened for Perennial the Gardeners Royal Benevolent Society a charity that has been helping horticulturalists since 1839

Newby Hall has sweeping long herbaceous borders and is my current favourite garden to visit. The national collection of Dogwoods is spectacular when in flower.

Burnby Hall Gardens at Pocklington has a national collection of waterlilies and the Stewart Museum. look out for heathers and the old Victorian gardens.

Wentworth Castle’s 50 acres of Grade 1 listed gardens are, historically, some of the most important gardens in the country. There is a fine Fernery and some great Holly behind the castle pictured above.

Gardeners
I didn’t have space for Harewood house (above) in my top ten (which became eleven, so I wonder what else I may have missed, please tell me.

Himalayan Gardens in England

Himalayan Gardens in England

Book Cover

First read the authoritative book ‘The Himalayan Garden: Growing Plants from the Roof of the World ‘ by Jim Jermyn

This book will provide tips and advice about cultivating species indigenous to the Himalayas. Understanding the ecology of the area gives a better appreciation of the Himilayan garden. It covers all the usual species including but not limited to Daphne, Euphorbia, Gentiana, Meconopsis, Primula and the classic Rhododendron. The book also considers different zones that are worth bearing in mind as we only associate Himalayas with big mountains. Jim covers chapters on Temperate, Sub-alpine and Alpine zones.

So now you are better prepared where can you visit?

  • The Himalayan garden The Hutts, Grewelthorpe, near Ripon Yorkshire not only has an interesting address but a good display of hybrid Rhododendrons. Also on display are Eucryphia, Bamboo and Cornus.
  • Also in Yorkshire is Harewood Himalayan garden opened by Alan Titchmarsh, in May 2009, says ‘The Harewood Himalayan Garden is a hidden gem and second to none in the UK…’
  • At Muncaster in the lake district check out the wonderful Sino-Himalayan Garden featuring many specimens rarely seen in the West.
  • If on the other hand you want your kids to have fun seek out Yeti at Riverhill Himalayan garden or climb the summit of Little Everest (the biggest hill in Sevenoaks)

Suppliers and other locations are listed on Rhododendron growers Glendoick’s web site.

See also Himalayan Gardens near Home