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Month: September 2012

Hosta Flower Photographs

Hosta Flower Photographs

Hosta flowers
A mass of purple flowers show that Hosta can produce the goods. They are also good for flower arranging.

Hosta slug fest

These flowers stand proud of the leaves which are just beginning to suffer slug damage. Flowers from June to October with funnel or bell shapes.

Hosta flower slugged

White flowers on this larger leafed Hosta are shown off by the blue-green leaves.

Jedburgh hosta

Another clear white flower – I am thinking I should consider Hostas for flowers not just the shape, form and colouring of the leaves. White flowering Hosta  plantaginea is strongly scented.

Old Hosta

Flowers are not as succulent as the leaves and snails and slugs go for the easy meal. Hosta flowers  are   members of the lily family and some folk say they are edible (but I will leave them for the slugs).

Hosta slug fest

Not as floriferous as many varieties the stems are shorter and few in number.
Hostas can be worth growing for the flowers alone – look at these flowers and see if the leaves are just useful extra features.

Mix of Favourite Seeds and Saving Tips

Mix of Favourite Seeds and Saving Tips

Mixed bunch

This collection of 27 different packets of seeds for sowing from the start of February contains a fine mix of varieties. The cost is below £40 and that is good value when you realise 10 of the packets are F1 hybrids which are generally quite expensive and nearly worth the entrance price alone.

Customer favourite seeds at Thompson & Morgan

Flowers in the Mix

Amberboa muricata
Begonia x tuberhybrida illumination Apricot Shades F1 Hybrid
Californian Poppy Fruit Crush
Marigold patula x erecta Zenith Mixed F1 Hybrid
Papaver oriental Coral Reef
Digitalis purpurea Candy Mountain
Echinacea purpurea Pink Parasol
Nasturtium minus Princess of India
Petunia x hybrida Purple Velvet F1 Hybrid
Petunia x hybrida Salmon Velvet F1 Hybrid
Papaver paeoniflorum Ooh La La
Sweet Pea Sugar ‘n’ Spiceâ„¢
Sweet Pea Flying the Flag
Sweet Pea Fragrantissima
Scabiosa atropurpurea Beaujolais Bonnets
Silene laciniata Jack Flash

Courgette and Egg plant

Vegetable Seeds in the Mix

Beetroot Wodan F1 Hybrid (Globe)
Runner Bean White Lady
Tomato Sungold F1
Tomato Suncherry Premium F1 Hybrid
Lettuce Chartwell (Romaine)
Lettuce Ultimate Mixed
Pea Oregon Sugar Pod (Mangetout)
Carrot Flyaway F1 Hybrid
Brussels Sprout Trafalgar F1
Climbing Bean Cobra
Courgette Defender F1 Hybrid

Gardeners Tips for a Mix of Favourite Seeds

  • If you like to grow your own from scratch or are looking for some new inspiration try this wide ranging collection. Sorry if you were misled in to thinking you could grow fuchsias from this seed collection – blame T&M.
  • Why not share the packets and growing with friends and neighbors or your local allotmenteers. There should be plenty to go around.
  • Flowering and cropping period for this mix vary from May to September. Sowing Months are from February to June or July

    • Leucanthemum

    Storing Unused Seed for Future Years

  • Most seed will remain viable for several years in unopened packets.
  • A bit of care can help keep opened seeds for several seasons.
  • Seed deteriorates if badly stored particularly in hot and fluctuating temperatures.
  • Seed is ‘done for’ if it gets moist and can rot or germinate so store it in dry conditions. I use a Tupperware box and have some desiccant crystals I got free with some bought goods.
  • I fold over the edge of foil wrappers so air and moisture can’t get into packets when I am saving some of the seed for other seasons or later sowing.
  • Seeds that I have collected from my garden are kept in paper bags or envelopes and try to avoid excessive drying out.
  • Germination rates vary from plant to plant and will deteriorate over time but if in doubt save your seed and hope for the best. Beware Parsnips and some varieties of seed have a very short shelf life. Other seed is best sown as soon as it is collected.
  • Some gardeners recommend storing seed in a container in a refrigerator but I have never bothered.
    • What is Acid Soil for Gardeners

    What is Acid Soil for Gardeners

    Many plants grow best in what is termed ‘acid soil’ but what acid and how strong. How can we gardeners find answers to these questions so we give our plants the most appropriate soil conditions.

    Ph tester

    Measuring Soil Acidity

    • Acidity in soil or solutions is measured in terms of the pH level. pH is the abbreviation for potential hydrogen the measure of its hydrogen-ion concentration.
    • pH for soil varies on a numeric scale where, between 1 and 7 is very acidic to neutral and between 7 and 14 is neutral to alkaline basic or limey
    • UK soils are normally the pH range of between pH 4.0 and 8.5. (4.0 is quite acidic and 8.5 very basic or alkaline).
    • I aim for soil between 6.0 and 7.5 an this suits most of my plants

    This scale shows pH in relation to common household liquids. 7.0 is pure distilled water.

    What is the Impact of pH on Plants

    • pH levels influence which plants will grow.
    • pH levels determine if a plant can take up and use normal nutrients.
    • An acid-loving plant in alkaline soil is likely to suffer and die.
    • Below 5.5pH the availability of manganese and aluminum could become toxic to plants.
    • In alkaline soils you may experience bacterial diseases eg in potatoes.

    Field Poppies

    What Affects Soil Acidity

    • Soil is not homogenous and you need to test soil from several areas. There are kits and measuring devices to help.
    • The original underlying parent material will determine your soil pH.
    • Rainfall and leaching can take soluble chemicals from the soil making it more acidic
    • The application of fertilisers and organic matter can influence the pH level.
    • High and regular crop harvesting can change the soil.

    Changing Soils pH Acidity

    • To make soil less acidic for vegetables, saxifrages and annuals for example you can add lime or pulverised chalk.
    • Bone meal is a good source of calcium and with wood ash it can help raise your soil’s pH over time. It is used for soils that are only slightly acidic.
    • Ericaceous plants such as most rhododendrons, heathers, camellias, acers and blueberries need acid soil.
    • Peat is naturally acidic and a mulch of pine needles, peat moss, or shredded bark that will organically reduce pH levels. Otherwise ericaceous compounds are sold
    • For container plants water several times with a solution of 2 tablespoons vinegar to a gallon of water

    June garden 069 Rhododendron

    Footnote
    The term Ericaceous is used for acidic soil or acid loving plants. Another way of looking at it is that Ericaceous plants are known as lime-hating or calcifuge plants. The term comes from Ericas which are generally peat loving moorland plants.

    Stokesia Laevis Aster Like Flowers

    Stokesia Laevis Aster Like Flowers

    Stokes’ aster is an unusual plant with large cornflower-like blooms on low growing plants, with rosettes of narrowly lance-shaped, dark-green leaves. It has a long flowering season, from mid-summer until the first severe frost in mid-autumn. The flowers are very good for cutting.
    Stokes' Aster

    Growing Conditions

    • An evergreen, Stokesia Laevis preferring acid soil, a sunny spot, and very good drainage. The roots may rot if plants are too wet in winter.
    • The long lasting flower heads are produced on plants 12-18 inches high with a similar spread.
    • The summer flowers are generally purplish/blue in a starry pattern and are ideal for cutting or attracting butterflies.
    • Stokesia laevis like good drainage, particularly in the winter, so a raised bed or rock garden may be worth trying.
    • Stokes’ Aster is a North American native wildflower with a double Shasta Daisy in effect.
    • Plants form a low mound of leathery green leaves, remaining evergreen in mild winter areas.

     

    Selected Varieties

    Stokesia Laevis Purple Parasols
    Stokesia Laevis alba
    Stokesia laevis ‘Blue Danube’ with 4 inch wide lavender flowerheads
    Stokesia laevis ‘Wyoming’ has the darkest blue flowerheads of all
    Stokesia laevis ‘Omega Skyrocket’ is a vigorous variety growing 3-4 ft tall and has long-stems of white to pale blue flower.

    STOKESIA

    Photo credits
    Stokes’ Aster by BlueRidgeKitties CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 ‘These pretty flowers were planted at the Daniel Boone Native Gardens in Boone. They are native to North Carolina, but more at home in the coastal plains than in the mountains. They are commonly cultivated for garden use. If you have them in your yard, cutting the dying flowers before they set seeds will make the plants produce more flowers throughout the entire summer. ‘
    STOKESIA by Swami Stream, CC BY 2.0
    Stokes Aster by cmcgough CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

    Stokes Aster

    Good Root Growth with Root Stimulators

    Good Root Growth with Root Stimulators

    Root and beech beach

    Rootgrow is an organic treatment that was originally launched to improve the vigour of roses via the roots when incorporated at planting. Rootgrow helps to improve the uptake of water and nutrients from the soil and is now more widely used. It encourages the roots to grow more quickly and also helps to prevent rose replant sickness. It is especially beneficial in poor soil but do not use with bonemeal as that inhibits growth of the fungi.
    Rootgrow can be bought in most good garden centres or via amazon

    Plants use hormones to influence and promote the development of their cells. Root stimulators, like rootgrow usually come packed with bacteria that can actually produce phytohormones directly into your plant. The hormones encourage much faster growth which results in bigger yields and faster harvests. Mycorrhizal fungi can now be added when planting as there is a symbiotic relationship that encourages healthy root growth.

    According to some, quality rooting stimulators come with certain strains of bacteria, most notably paenibacillus, designed to enhance the Nitrogen your plant receives so it can help maximize root and plant health. This bacteria provides your roots with a steady stream of reduced nitrogen by converting N2 gas in the air into a form of nitrogen that can help your roots grow to their potential. ‘The volume of soil space controlled by tree roots is directly related to tree health’ Dr Kim Coder 2000

    Hydroponics growers have had to deal with the encroachment of harmful fungi, usually when their conditions becomes too humid but there are certain strains of fungi that can actually benefit root development. When these fungi are introduced to your hydroponic system, they can break down debris and turn any undissolved nutrients into materials that your plant can actually absorb by increasing nutrient uptake, releasing Growth Hormones and promoting Beneficial Fungi, with Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium.

    A mixture of 5% nitrogen, 12% phosphoric acid, 3% soluable potash is highly effective as a plant starter. It stimulates early strong root formation and reduces transplant shock.

    Tree Roots

    Good Roots and Bad Roots

    • This shrub has evolved a root system that fits the landscape literally.
    • Good large roots should be oriented both laterally and vertically to provide better root systems.
    • Many plants need large roots for anchorage and fine feeder roots for water and sustenance.
    • Higher quality root systems have several large main roots emerging from just below the soil surface.

    Roots get low recognition by many gardeners but the science of root growth and root development is about to change all that. No longer is it good enough to dig a £5 hole for a £1 plant. More care and thought needs to go into the roots and their needs and aspirations.

    Silene is Not Just Campion

    Silene is Not Just Campion

    June garden silene

    Silene is a genus of plants often called Campion. The ‘Catch fly’, red Campion and the white Campion, Silene latifolia, are quite well known and feature in many cottage gardens.
    Siline acaulis is a variety that flowers much closer to the ground on short stems and is similar to Phlox . Some times referred to as the Cushion Pink it is a small mountain-dwelling wildflower

    silene hookeri

    Silene Hookeri is grown as a North American rock plant and enjoys drier conditions. It has hairy gray leaves with many short spreading stems in a cluster. The flowers have deeply divided petals in white pink or purple.

    Silene cambessedesii

    Silene cambessedesii is synonymous with Silene aegyptica and has darker purple flowers.

    Silene schafta agm is a mat-forming semi-evergreen perennial.
    Silene Pendula Peach Blossom is a hardy annual also called Nodding Catchfly
    Silene Laciniata Jack Flash is an orange flowered hardy perennial.

    More Silene plants and seeds at Thompson & Morgan

    Many Silenes are mat forming and useful for rockeries and alpine gardens.

    Instant Collection of Perennial Plants

    Instant Collection of Perennial Plants

    If you want a quick solution to building a stock of plants for your garden then consider buying a ready made collection.
    In the Thompson & Morgan range you’ll find an impressive selection of perennial plants that are perfect for beginners and experienced gardeners alike. Also known as herbaceous plants, these perennials live for several years and flower every year.

    June garden 055 Oriental Poppy

    Perennial Plant Collection

    Fill your beds and borders with a special bargain collection of herbaceous perennials. Perennial plants bloom year after year, and many can also be cut and brought into the house for beautiful flower arrangements. Height of the plants in this collection vary up to 150cm (60″) Most will form increasingly larger clumps each year with a spread of 75cm (30″).

    Buy a collection of ready grown plug plants at Thompson & Morgan

    Perennial Collections may include some or all of the following

    A. Coreopsis ‘Sunray’ – Neat, compact plants bear golden-yellow, semi-double flowers all summer long.
    B. Echinacea ‘Magic Box’ – A stunning mix of daisy flowers and spectacular garden performance.
    C. Scabiosa ‘Blue Jeans’ – Blue pincushion flowers attract bees and butterflies throughout summer.
    D. Foxglove ‘Dalmatian Peach’ – Peachy trumpet flowers crowd sturdy, upright stems.
    E. Poppy ‘Pizzicato’ Mixed – A neat semi dwarfing variety, producing up to 20 large flowers per plant.
    F. Silene ‘Jack Flash’ – Scarlet blooms carried on elegant, slender stems over a long period.
    G. Aquilegia ‘Swan’ Mixed – Long flowering, large blooms on upright, multi-branched stems.
    H. Lavender ‘Munstead’ – A neat, compact variety of fragrant English lavender.
    I. Heuchera ‘Palace Purple’ – Glossy, semi-evergreen purple leaves provide year round colour.
    J. Delphinium ‘Pacific Giants’ – Excellent adding structure and presence to the back of borders.
    K. Gaillardia ‘Arizona’ – A spectacular dwarf Blanket Flower with a long-flowering period.
    L. Carnation ‘Ever-blooming Mixed’ (Hardy) – Richly fragrant blooms that are ideal for cutting.

    June garden Aquilegia

    When plants are well grown, gradually acclimatise them to outdoor conditions over 7 to 10 days before transplanting into borders and containers.
    The herbaceous perennials in this collection can be grown in any moist, fertile soil, in sun or semi shade.
    Work some compost or general fertiliser into the top 20cm of the soil prior to planting.
    Water when the soil is dry and add aliquid feed to get the best out of your perennials.

    Grow ‘Crocus sativus’ for Saffron

    Grow ‘Crocus sativus’ for Saffron

    Saffron crocus

    The expensive spice Saffron is made from the stamen of Crocus sativus.

    What is Crocus sativus

    • Crocus sativas is an autumn flowering corm from the Iridaceae and crocus family.
    • The flowers are deep blue and the stigmas dark red or saffron coloured.
    • Crocus sativus throws up a spear of green leaves only after flowering.
    • Corms are cheap to buy and reproduction is by corm division. This crocus is infertile.
    • There are only 3 stigma to a flower so it takes 100,000 blooms to make a pound of saffron. This accounts for Saffron being worth more than gold weight for weight.

    How to Grow Crocus sativus

    • Crocus sativus grow best in full sunlight.
    • I have just planted some corms in deep pots with good drainage and a bit of rotted bark to keep the compost open.
    • Raised beds would be another way of growing Saffron so harvesting and drainage problems are minimised.
    • Growing ‘Crocus sativus’ for a Saffron crop you need to collect the threads in the morning and dry the saffron.

    You can buy Crocus sativus from Thompson & Morgan

    Saffron whole close up

    How to Use Saffron

    • Saffron from Crocus sativus has been used for centuries to flavour and colour food.
    • It has been cultivated by Greeks, Romans and Chinese for 3500 years and is now a cash crop in Afghanistan, Kashmir and Spain.
    • The Chinese use it as a medicine, in food and as a dye.
    • Crocus sativus is a brightly coloured but short lived flower in the rockery at the end of summer or early autumn

    For other Autumn crocus


    Photo Credits
    Saffron crocus by kightp CC BY-NC 2.0 ‘Crocus sativus. The red stigmas seen on the left bloom are the more-precious-than-gold ….. Stigmas have already been plucked from the bloom on the right. The half-dozen corms planted in my front garden bed three years ago have multiplied to the point where I’ve harvested nearly a tablespoon of threads this year – enough for several risottos, paellas and other dishes in the months ahead.’
    Saffron whole close up by notafish CC BY-SA 2.0

    Trees and Shrubs For Birds

    Trees and Shrubs For Birds

    Birds need food, cover and nesting sites to survive in your garden. A good perching point will help birds feel and be safe and good leaf cover will help in bad weather.

    The more varied you make your garden the better for wild life, lawns, hedges, ponds and varied habitats all help. Avoid planting too many non-native species and choose a selection of trees and shrubs to provide insects and berries for bird food.

    Shrubs

    Berberis have spiny branches for cover and berries or fruit. Berberis wilsoniae is ideal for small gardens or you could try B. thunderbergii, vulgaris, gagrepainii or dawinii.

    The Cotoneaster family produce many berries. Do not bother planting Cotoneaster conspicuax decora as birds will not eat the berries. Pyracantha Firethorn is very popular with birds and most gardeners.

    Hedge shrubs like Hawthorn and Holly and Privet provide safe cover for small birds. Yew’s red berries feed thrushes.

    Buddleia globosa the Butterfly bush attract large quantities of insects which in turn feed birds.

    Trees for Perching

    Birch supports insects including caterpillars as do Goat Willow Salix caprea.

    Rowan mountain Ash Sorbus aucuparia is a avian favourite.

    Bird Cherry and Wild Cherry produce early fruit and are well sought after by birds.

    Conifers appeal to Siskins and Tits. Try Larch Larix decidua or Scots Pine Pinus sylvestris.

    Climbers

    Honeysuckle bears red fruit and also provide nesting sites. Lonicera periclymenum or L.caprifolium are suitable species to grow and you get the scent thrown in.

    Hedera helix or the common ivy is excellent cover, attracts insects and Thrushes, Pigeons and Robins like the fruit.

    Virginia creeper are vigorous growers providing nesting and roosting cover.

    Rambling Brambles, Rubus fruticosus are popular in dry weather for the juicy berries particularly for finches.

    Other Plants

    Good seed setters including Cornflower, Forget-me-not and Michaelmas daisy provide food over the growing months.

    Sunflower seeds are popular for extra protein. Wallflowers can also be left to seed.

    Unfortunately for gardeners many weeds are popular with birds including chickweed, dandelion, sowthistle and groundsel.

    Lawns attract small flies and the soil provides worms for Starlings, Thrushes and Robins.

    Sources of further plant selections
    RHS
    RSPB
    Wild Life Trust
    Getting birds in your garden from Garden Products

     

    Gardeners Tips Favourite Links

    Gardeners Promises

    Gardeners Promises

    Last winter I recorded some of the promises I had made myself about the garden and gardening. Nine months on some have worked, some have been ignored and the jury is still out on others.
    This review may tip you off or give you some hints for your own set of promises.
    These gardeners promises were recorded on the computer so I couldn’t escape. I also put some in a garden log book which I ‘promised’ to keep up with but seldom did – I blame the weather!

    Daisy
    ‘Inula hookeri’

    Garden Promises

    1. Get more scent from flowers particularly for the house. Fair progress with good Sweetpeas, that produced umpteen bunches and from strongly scented Phlox. Spring was a bit slow so I have just planted some ‘Narcissus Cheerfulness’ for next year.
    2. Create a plant and seed nursery. I have again failed to dedicate even a small area to sow seeds direct into the ground or a plant nursery spot for growing-on plants or taking cuttings. I am a plonker, that is I plonk in anything anywhere. The promise for next year must be to stop being a plonker.
    3. Take more care of chrysanths. I see these great flowers as high maintenance and I do not do right by them. I forget to pinch out, failed to pot on or stake as soon as needed and do not deserve to do well; nor do I.
    4. Fruit area design & order. I have reduced the veg patch and ordered more raspberries, red currants and bought a thornless blackberry. This is one promise that is well on the way.
    5. Rambler rose. I lost my rambler some year ago and intend growing another but haven’t found the space or variety yet.
    6. Lift crown on the bamboo clump. I must look out the variety of the well behaved bamboo that I grow as part of a mixed hedge. I wanted space underneath the green canopy and so pruned out some of the lower growth leaving the top untouched. Early days yet and I have probably been too cautious. 50% of a job well done I guess.
    7. Allow plants to grow old. I want to move on in the garden before plants have matured and given us the best. Again I am chopping down to early and loosing potential specimen plants before they can look old. I know I am impatient and missing out.
    8. Keep a better record of names and varieties. Failed
    9. Give plants appropriate space. Failed I still cram everything in
    10. Use more hard landscaping. Failed still clearing more ground for more plants.

    Daisy