February 9, 2010 at 12:50 am
· Filed under Fruit, Vegetables & Herbs

Sweet Peppers or Bell peppers can be grown from seed in a range of colours. Ideal for a greenhouse or conservatory they may also thrive in a hot summer.
Seed Selection
Sweet Jumbo F1 Seeds by Thompson Morgan produce Peppers that are green turning red. Often fruit are more than 6in long and 3½-4in across, ‘Jumbo Sweet’ can ‘weigh up to 200g (½lb) and we are sure much bigger, and dare we say – world records may be shattered with this super new hybrid. It is vigorous, early and a prolific cropper. It is very crisp and sweet eaten fresh and because it has a small central core it is ideal for stuffing. Best crops will be achieved in a greenhouse or conservatory but it is worth trying a few outdoor plants if the summer is hot.
With a flavour so juicy, crisp and clean you’ll eat them right ofl the plant! Sweet Pepper Big Banana produces fruits up to 25cm (10in) long and 5cm (2in) wide mature to a deep shiny scarlet. Amazing yield – up to 50 full-sized fruits per plant. Seeds by Thompson Morgan
Sweet Pepper Sweet Chocolate is a delicious sweet pepper with a ‘come and eat me’ appeal once the fruits have ripened from green to a rich chocolate colour on the outside and brick red on the inside with thick, sweet flesh. Sweet Pepper Sweet Chocolate plants are very productive throughout the summer. by Thompson Morgan
Orange bell Seeds by Thompson Morgan Very productive plants producing typical ‘blocky’, thick walled fruits with delicious sweetness. Sweet Pepper Orange Bell is very productive, with fruits that start green, ripening to a gorgeous orange.
Sowing Instructions
Sow seeds March to April. Place seeds on the surface of a free draining compost and cover with a fine sprinkling of compost or vermiculite. Place in a propagator at 18-21C (65-70F) until after germination, which takes 7-10 days. Do not exclude light as this helps germination.
Growing Instructions
Transplant seedlings when large enough to handle into 7.5cm (3 in) pots. Plant in final situation when 10cm (4in) high, 45cm (18in) apart. For indoor crops, plant into growbags or pots. For outdoor crops, acclimatise plants to outdoor conditions for a few days before planting in sunny, fertile, moist, well drained soil , after all risk of frost has passed.
Aftercare
For a heavier crop, feed all peppers with a high potash fertiliser each week, once the flowers have started to set fruit.
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February 8, 2010 at 7:31 am
· Filed under Fruit, Vegetables & Herbs

A recent arrival from Siberia, the Honeyberry is also called Lonicera caerulea and the variety edulis is the one to grow.
White flowers are followed by long ‘blueberry like’ fruit high in vitamin C
Pick in May June and eat raw or cooked in pies if you get a big enough crop.
- Plant in sun or partial shade in any well drained soil.
- Pollination is improved by two or more plants
- Keep well watered whilst the shrub establishes itself.
- Will grow to 4 feet tall and wide and should only be pruned when old wood needs removing.
- Protect the fruit from birds who like the sweet summer delicacy.
- Can be grown in large containers.
Do not confuse with the Honeybush a spectacular architectural feature plant that looks stunning planted in large ornamental or exotic borders and containers with its blue-green spiky foliage. Honeybush has a sweet peanut butter fragrance when crushed. Known as the Honeybush because its tall bronzered flower spikes project a beautiful honey fragrance seeds by Thompson Morgan
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February 8, 2010 at 3:09 am
· Filed under Fruit, Vegetables & Herbs

Butternut squash are delicious, prolific and easy to grow. They like to ramble and scramble, pinch out when the lead shoot is 3 feet long to encourage fruiting. Each plant can produce 4-8 fruit each weighing over 2 pounds. Butternut Squash has a sweet, nutty taste that is similar to pumpkin. It has yellow skin and orange fleshy pulp. When ripe, it turns increasingly deep orange, and becomes sweeter and richer.
- Grow from seed when the risk of frost has gone and plant out 3 foot apart.
- During the growing season it is vital to ensure that the plant never dries out to stop fruit being shed.
- Deep beds with a mulch of rotted horse manure and a weekly feed with Miracle-gro or Phostrogen will help crop size.
- Keep stalks/stems dry to avoid rotting.
Harvesting and Storing
When the fruit is ripe the texture of the skin becomes firm, golden in colour and will easily resist the pressure of your thumb nail. Like a melon, it “rings” when given a good rap.
Storage as for all vegetables of this type is in a clean, cool, dry place. I have seen them stored in a loft space on top of fiber glass insulation.
If picked in late September they can last until April the following year.
Winter Barbara Butternut F1 Seeds by Thompson Morgan
Waltham Dutchy Originals Seeds by Thompson Morgan
More Cultivation Instructions
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February 8, 2010 at 3:09 am
· Filed under Alpine Garden, Novice Gardeners

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder so keep an eye open for unusual sights on the 14th February. Rather than Roses or posies this Aubretia plant has decided to grow a heart shape all of its own.
Aubretia is a compact low growing plant that flourishes on walls and rockeries in full sun. Aubretia is easy to grow at the front of the border on any reasonably drained fertile soil and will spread naturally by seed.
Aubretia deltoides or rock cress is good for ground cover and is available in shades of blue and purple.
Grow from seed by sowing from late winter to early summer in a good free draining seed compost just covering the seed. Make sure the compost is moist and not wet and seal in a polythene bag until after germination which usually takes 14-21 days at 18C (65F).
Aubretia is an evergreen perennial plant that is attractive to butterflies.
Plants by Thompson Morgan
Seeds by Thompson Morgan
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February 8, 2010 at 2:37 am
· Filed under Flowers and Plants

Grow Winter Aconites
The tuberous Winter Aconite or Eranthis likes a loose, well-drained chalky soil but will naturalise in a lawn or under a deciduous tree.
In the wild these do exactly what bulbs are supposed to do – grow, flower and seed while light penetrates the bare branches of the trees above them.
The knobbly tubers need to be planted 2” deep. The tubers can be divided after flowering every few years and transplanted ‘in the green’ . They dry out very easily, generally dislike being moved and are best left to their own devices.
Winter aconite does well in containers as long as they get water and winter sunshine.
Winter aconites grow to 3-4 inches high and have upturned yellow cup shaped flowers around 1 inch across. The flowers sit stalkless on a ruff of bright green leaves and they can flower for up to six weeks.
They do particularly well in chalky soil. Good drainage is essential.
Some gardeners dislike aconites for the messy mass of foliage but allow the leaves die down and the plant will be dormant and hidden until next winter.
Eranthis Species
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February 7, 2010 at 10:46 am
· Filed under Flowers and Plants, Trees and Shrubs

It is a bit late to be setting New Years Resolutions for 2010 but I intend taking more interest in Roses and more care of Rose trees this year. Normally the one thing I give up for lent is my new years resolutions but since I am a late starter this year I will stick to the Rose this time.
This month I will be ordering some new bare rooted roses of ‘Ruby Wedding’ and will leave you to guess why.
Masquarade Rose
Masquerade’ (above) is a floribunda rose with dark green foliage and semi-double flowers of mixed yellow turning red as they age.
As a climber the Masquerade will grow upto 6 feet tall and repeat flower through the season. It has fine colouring, negligible scent but is OK for a north facing position.
Baby Masquerade is a cross with tom thumb but retains all the Masquarade charecteristics on a 10″ high plant.
The velvety, deep red rose (below) was established in my garden when I moved in almost 30 years ago and I have never known its name. Perhaps I should do some digging through rose catalogues to find out.

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February 7, 2010 at 12:15 am
· Filed under Flowers and Plants, Garden Design

There are many gardens and monuments dedicated to Peace and they are worth seeking out when you are on your travels.
London
In May 1999, His Holiness the Dalai Lama opened and consecrated the Tibetan Peace Garden next to the Imperial War Museum, London, UK and it has been enhanced by Arabella Lennox-Boyd. The original contains Buddhist features including a language pillar and at its heart the Kalachakra Mandala associated with world peace. Eight meditation areas surround this main monument. Four modern Western sculptures representing Air, Fire, Earth and Water have been carefully located to the north, south east and west. If this all seems a bit too much and you just want a quiet, soothing walk, head for the inner gardens which are scented with herbs, jasmine, honeysuckle and roses. An outlying landscaped area is also great for ambling around.
There is now a circular paved space surrounded by double rows of Hornbeam Carpinus Betulus and a number of Betula ermanii and B. Utilis in numbers important to the Buddhists and the concept of peace and tranquility. 6,7,8,12,16,21,37 & 49.
The International Peace Garden dedicated in 1932 is devoted to World Peace. It lies along the world’s longest unfortified border and encompasses a 2,339 acre Botanical Garden. Between the State of North Dakota and the Province of Manitoba this garden is a well frequented site maintained jointly by USA and Canada. There is another International Peace garden in Salt lake City Utah.
Sheffield Peace Gardens
The Peace Gardens are an award winning public space at the Heart of the City project, a project that has been connected with the City’s economic and cultural regeneration since it began in 1998. There is a spectacular walk, the ‘Gold Route’, taking visitors from Sheffield Railway Station through a series of exciting new developments including the Goodwin Fountain, which has 89 individual jets of water. There is also the Holberry Cascades dedicated to the leader of the Chartist Movement located on either side of the four entrances to the main area of the Peace Gardens.

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February 6, 2010 at 3:14 am
· Filed under Flowers and Plants, Garden Equipment Tips, Gardeners, Novice Gardeners, Pests, Problems and Health

Acidity and alkalinity are measured on a pH scale. Below pH 7.0 is verging towards acidic so pH 4.5 is very acid. Test kits are available from many sources.
Increasing Alkalinity.
For vegetables a pH of around 6.5 is ideal and to achieve this it may be necessary to add some lime into the top 6 inches of your soil.
Garden lime is available from most garden centers. Builders lime or quick lime is more aggressive to plants.
If your soil is around a pH of 7.0 (neutral) I would not bother to try adjust it. Above that it is limey soil and less suitable for acid lovers like rhododendrons and blueberries.
Adding lime helps vegetables take up nutrients. It also suppresses club root in members of the brassica family.
Manure then a couple of weeks later lime your soil during winter, it helps to break up the soil.
For lawns, shrubs, roses, fruit or trees, apply lime before planting.
Calcified seaweed and ground chalk or powdered limestone are other forms of calcium carbonate that will help reduce acid soil.
The RHS has a table of lime quantities needed to correct different levels of acidity read more
Acidifying Soil
To change the pH of the top 6inches of soil from neutral pH 7.0, or slightly alkaline pH 7.5 to slightly acid pH 6.0-pH 6.5 sulphur powder may be required.
Aluminium sulphate or Ferrous sulphate can also be used as a soil acidifiers. The effects are rapid, but large quantities can interfere with phosphorus levels in the soil and may also reduce pH excessively.
Soil-acidifying materials can be applied at any time of the year but products containing sulphur take longer to work when the soil is cold so are normally best applied from spring to autumn.
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February 4, 2010 at 9:48 am
· Filed under Flowers and Plants, Novice Gardeners

Easy Annuals ‘Fairy Mixed‘ by Thompson Morgan
Beginners and novices can grow some colourful annuals quickly and cheaply. If the packet instructions says ‘can be sown direct outdoors then do so when the soil warms up. If you want to get a quick start use a tray on a warm window ledge.
Starting with Seeds
- Always read the instructions on the packet of seeds.
- Use a good quality seed or potting compost with a level surface.
- Water with a fine spray and leave to drain.
- Scatter seed evenly or place individual seeds in each cell and use a clear lid to maintain humidity.
- Maintain an even temperature, generally 20º C will suit most seeds but again read the instructions.
- Allow air to circulate once leaves start to appear.
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February 4, 2010 at 7:54 am
· Filed under Flowers and Plants

My own Hellebores are still under several inches of snow but this pink Hellebore was flowering happily in a sheltered garden in York on th 3rd February. Called the ‘Secret Garden’ near St Cuthbert’s church, Peasholme Green, it is situated under the shelter of the walls that surround most of York.
Hellebores are easy to grow and are more collectible since good hybrids have come on the market. Our more comprehensive list of various species is available here. They are tolerant of most soil conditions but prefer moist soil although they can stand drought.

The Stinking Hellebore foetidus is a compact, evergreen perennial with finely divided elegant foliage. Height up to 2 feet with a similar spread. The scent leaves a lot to be desired. In spring the almost ferny clumps have clusters of nodding, lime-green, long lasting flowers held on thick stems just above the tops of the foliage. These Hellebores associate well with other spring flowers that enjoy dappled shade such as primroses. Again in 2010 they seem to be in flower earlier than usual.
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