Absence of War or Peace Gardens

Absence of War or Peace Gardens

Peace is not just the absence of war it can be a reflection of a personal inner tranquility. To many gardeners peace may be a state of harmony with nature. It is a theme of several ‘hard landscape’ projects and sculptural works as shown by the selection of Peace gardens below.

The World Peace Garden Network
You can join this consciousness raising network of gardens simply by declaring that your own garden, patio, balcony, or subject to appropriate approvals your local public park or garden be made into a World Peace Garden  Bristol Communal Gardens Group & Clifton Gardens Society was designated a World Peace Garden in 2001.

20th Anniversary of Gardens for Peace
This organisation seeks to designate and develop the garden as a place for meditation and a symbol for peace throughout the world. Stron in the USA there is scope to nominate a UK garden via the link above.

The Sheffield Peace Gardens
Are part of Sheffield Heart of the City project, a project that has been connected with the City’s economic and cultural regeneration since it began in 1998. Originally a temporary garden within the church walls was named St Paul’s Gardens. However, the name changed to the Peace Gardens after WWII and a desire for a return to peacetime. The gardens occupy an area of 0.67 hectares with sculptures and fountains.
The Peace Gardens form the central part of a spectacular walk, the emerging Gold Route, taking visitors from Sheffield Railway Station through a series of exciting new developments each with their own distinctive lighting, public art and water features. More information about the Peace Gardens’ History.

St Thomas’ Peace Garden
This is an example of a small public park in Birmingham – designated as a monument to peace and a memorial to all those killed in armed conflict.

The International Peace Garden
It lies along the world’s longest unfortified border and encompasses a 2,339 acre Botanical Garden. Between the State of North Dakota and the Province of Manitoba this garden is a well frequented site maintained jointly by USA and Canada. It was dedicated in 1932 and devoted to World Peace.

Sri Chinmoy Peace Garden – San Diego

 

A former vacant lot in San Diego, this area has been converted to a peace garden, with statue of Sri Chinmoy.

At Yelp, there are many reviews of the healing powers of this meditation garden

“This is one of my favorite peaceful places in SD. I’m blessed to live in this neighborhood and to see this little piece of peace on my afternoon walks.  I don’t know exactly who keeps this garden groomed but who ever does a big thank you.  Sometimes I don’t have enough energy for a power walk but at least I make it to this garden and give myself the gift of meditating for at least 5 minutes. I would say it has magical powers because I always leave feeling at peace and relaxed. If meditating is not your thing, it has a couple of benches so you can sit and enjoy the scenery”

sri-chinmoy-peace-garden-plaque


Gardeners Tips Peace Gardens.

  • Find your own Peace in a garden or let us know about other ‘Peace Gardens’ you have visited.
  • Many hospitals believe in the healing power of nature and the serenity it can provide.
  • An old cemetery in the heart of Barnsley has develop it into a cleaner, safer environment for the local community.
  • A guide on how to create a Peace garden from the International Catholic Movement for Peace

You can visit the Garden of Gethsemane with a perimeter of  a collection of olive trees, some very old, in single file. The interior of the garden is off-limits and may be subject to security features during the current war and conflicts.

Monastic and Medieval Christian Gardens

Monastic and Medieval Christian Gardens

Romans were were enthusiastic gardeners (not just for the grapes) but when the empire fell gardening collapsed. Then in around the 9th century AD the gardening skills were revived and every town was encouraged to grow herbs, fruit and nut trees.
The formal gardens of the middle ages had an atmosphere of tranquillity rarely equaled and were thought of as ‘Heaven on Earth’. Fountains Abbey Yorkshire

Features of a Christian Garden

  • With many features in common with Islamic gardens the Christian monks took inspiration from a revived interest in gardens.
  • Boundaries and square structures were the most common with stone walls used in castles and cloisters.  Hedges, wattle fences, palisades, trellis and ditches were also used as boundaries by the less well to do. The effort was made to make them safe as they were a place of retreat and protection from evil.
  • Simple paths were used to divide up a rectangular space.
  • A medieval garden could be a microcosm of paradise and seen as ‘a recreation of good things’.
  • Raised beds of simple geometric shapes accentuated the impression of symbolically clean lines and at the same time helped drainage for herbs.
  • Covered walkways and arbors created enclosed spaces within the already enclosed space of the garden.
  • Seating was important to facilitate contemplation and prayer.

Monastic gardens

Generally monastic gardens consisted of  several different types of gardens for different and specific purposes. A monastery would typically have a physic garden, plus a secluded garden for contemplation and meditation. There would also be community facilities for separate vegetable and fruit gardens, orchard or cemetery gardens, as well as fishponds and dovecotes.

As recorded on the behalf of St Hildegard Germany’s greatest mystic and God companion  ‘The medieval garden, as with any garden, is a work of love. Gardens are instruments of healing, a means to provide sustenance and health, and reminders of our connectivity with the natural world.

 

The Tea Garden and Tea House

The Tea Garden and Tea House

Modern tea gardens may seem to be a contradiction but since the 15th century the wabi tea ceremony has influenced the tea gardens purpose and design. Originally when tea plants (Camellia sensi) were introduced into Japan from China in the 6th century they were the prerogative of the ruling classes and used expensive ingredients and equipment.

The  subsequent simplification was started by Zen monk Shuko Murata. It led to the tea-room’s interior being reduced in space to the bare minimum needed for the contemplation of the relationship between people and things.

Tea House Tatton Park

Key Features of a Zen Tea House

  • As a location for the tea ceremony the core attribute is providing a support for humility. ‘We can’t focus on what is important if our egos get in the way’. Thus the entrance to a tea house is generally so low that you must crawl to pass through it.
  • The tea house should provide the best views for meditation.
  • The objective is to create a hut that emphasises the rustic and humble.
  • The approach to the tea house is through the tea garden. To sharpen the mind and senses the path should consist of a series of detailed views.
  • Stepping stones help to slow your pace  to a speed suitable for meditation and contemplation.
  • Outside the door of the tea room is a stone basin to wash your hands and mouth before the tea ceremony begins.
  • There should be a light or lantern to guide you in the dark.

 

Other Quotes about the Tea Ceremony

  • “Tea began as a medicine and grew into a beverage.” –Katkuzo Okakura
  • “The Way of Tea cannot be taught in any book…It is a state of mind. Tea is a living
    tradition.” –Professor Kimiko Gunji,
  • “Holding a bowl of tea whisked to a fine froth…
    Such a simple thing: yet filled with a spirit that
    Reaches back more than a thousand years.”–The Urasenke Tradition of Tea
  • ‘Show them who wait
    Only for flowers
    There in the mountain villages:
    Grass peeks through the snow,
    And with it, spring.’ Fujiwara no letaka

Korean Tea and Tea Garden Guide

For anyone wishing to learn more about Korean culture, enjoy Korean tea, visit beautiful tea gardens or become an expert in Korean tea, this photo-filled, comprehensive guide to Korean tea and tea gardens is a sumptuous seasonal gift. Yang Seok Yoo  Co-author Esther Yoo 

 

Growing Iris siberica

Growing Iris siberica

Iris

Iris sibirica is a clump forming member or the Iris family. In this walled garden the clump has been left undivided for several years and looks good in early summer with its blue flowers held above the foliage.

Growing Siberian Iris

  • Iris siberica is widely and easily grown in gardens with moist sunny conditions.
  • This Iris is the parent plant of many hybrids that vary widely in flower colour.
  • The roots grow and spread with the foliage, neither bulbs, rhizomes nor stolonesque.
  • The flower stems usually carry three buds which open to 3″ wide flowers.
  • The leaves look deep brown in Autumn.

Siberian Iris Botany

  • Iris siberica is one of eleven species of Siberian iris split into two groups.
  • 28 Chromosome group are the easiest to grow  comprising Iris siberica, closely related Iris typhifolia and Iris sanguinea .
  • Iris siberica has been cultivated since Carolus Clusius 1526-1609 and there are numerous hybrids.
  • 40 Chromosome species include I. bulleyana, I. chryographes, I. clarkie, plus the later flowering I. delavayi, I. dykesii, I. forrestii and I. wilsonii.
  • In another series Tripetalae there are 2 more species the easy grown Iris setosa, 2-3′ tall with six or more flowers and Iris tridentata.

Iris

Growing Mesembryanthemum

Growing Mesembryanthemum

IMG_7526

Description of Mesembryanthemum criniflorum

  • Often called the Livingstone daisy, Fig Marigold or the Ice Plant.
  • The leaves are juicy & succulent with a furry texture.
  • Flowers are single in a wide range of gaudy colours from white through shocking pink to orange.
  • Many flowers have light coloured centres and there are now more self colour seed packets available.
  • Plants are from the Aizoaceae family that contains a130 genera and over 1200 species that also includes Lithops

Cultivation Tips for Mesembryanthemum criniflorum

  • Sow seed February to April at 60-70F in John Innes Seed Compost.
  • Sow on surface of compost and gently firm down compost. Keep soil damp but not wet. Do not exclude light which helps germination.
  • Sealing in a polythene bag after sowing is also helpful. Germination usually takes 15-21 days.
  • When seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant and grow on in cooler conditions for 10-15 days before planting out in a sunny frost free spot on light well drained soil.
  • Plants are low growing and spread 6-10″.
  • Ideal for poor soil conditions in full sun.
  • Flowers remain shut in dull weather

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Perfect Parsley

Perfect Parsley

Parsley Tips

  • I have grown this parsley from spring sown seed. Germination can be a bit erratic as warm temperatures are needed.
  • After a summer in the herb bed I have potted a clump up in the greenhouse.
  • Before the worst frosts I will bring a pot into the house for snipping onto potatoes and garnishing fish.
  • The flat leaved variety is one of my favourite herbs but I am not very successful at growing it. Fortunately there are many varieties that seem to be within my compass.
  • Parsley is a hungry feeder so if growing in a container add some bone meal

The curly herb Parsley crispum is naturally slow to germinate. If the soil dries out it may never germinate.

DSC03927 - parsley

Germination Tips

    • Try watering the drill then sow the seed in the drill covering with dry soil. This covering will dramatically reduce evaporation so the seed will be in contact with moisture for longer.

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Allotments on Knight’s Hill London

Allotments on Knight’s Hill London

Back garden, spring 2008

I was caught by the headline ‘On the Eighth day God Created Allotments

With new interest in researching allotments I came across this fantastic picture with lots of detail. ‘Back garden, spring 2008 by Darkroom Daze’ has been made available under a creative commons license CC BY-NC-SA 2.0. Here is some of the supporting detail but you can find more by clicking the picture thanks to Darkroom Daze.

‘NOTE ON THE GARDEN
The garden was very plain and bare when we arrived in 1985. We have been developing the design gradually since then, but not from a single pre-planned conception. Eventually we developed the overall shape, with a ‘winding river’ effect made by the lawns and path. The shapes of the rockeries, planting and other features are based on the way a small stream winds between ‘interlocking spurs’ in hilly terrain. We did all the planting, and I built many of the features. For further history of our garden, see set description for ‘OUR BACK GARDEN’
FEATURES (also noted on photo if viewed with flickr)
– Arbour – R foreground, only slat-roof visible, assembled from flat-pack.
– Garden railway – L foreground, on Water Rockery, G-scale 45mm gauge.
– Path – of reclaimed York stone laid in ‘crazy’ style by local landscaper, late Mr. Rogers, to our own winding design, shortly after we arrived in 1985.
– Temple of Juno garden shed – centre L, with white portico and shingled roof, built by me in sections out of reclaimed timber (“Rosen Wanted”) at a previous house, brought here and extended with portico, and finished by joiner Steve Cruse.
– Upper Rockery (Railway Rockery) – lower centre, with evergreen and alpine planting, and Upper Loop ofGarden Railway (not visible here), built myself of various kinds of stone in simulated geological structure.
– Valrosa Cabin workshop – centre background, brown, fully insulated, completed earlier in the year by Acer Landscapes.
– Water Rockery – centre L, with pumped water course, upper pools, cascades, and lower loop of garden railway, though only the railway is visible here. Almost all built myself.
PLANTS (also noted on photo)
– Buxus sempervirens – jelly-mould box-hedge, centre L foreground.
– Chamaecyparis, columnar, not sure what species or form – in neighbour’s garden to L, along the fence.
– Chamaecyparis – probably C. lawsoniana, Lawson’s cypress, ‘Stewartii’ or ‘Westermannii’ – neighbours’ tall bright conifer, R centre.
– Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Squarrosa’ – Sawara cypress, centre L immediately in front of Temple of Juno portico.
– Clematis armandii – evergreen climber on fence behind arbour, lower R. Looks reddish because this is colour of new spring shoots.
– Clematis cirrhosa var. balearica – growing over old apple tree stumps. centre L foreground.
– Cotoneaster frigidus – centre L in front of Temple of Juno.
– Escallonia macrantha – two shrubs shaped into an arch over side path, L side only visible here, centre R.
– Juniperus scopulorum ‘Skyrocket’ – pillar juniper, centre R.
– Lonicera japonica – Japanese honeysuckle, evergreen, closest part of R hedge.
– Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ – lower centre R, between path and arbour.
– Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’ – golden marjoram, at front of Upper Rockery along the path, lower centre.
– Phormium tenax probably ‘Rainbow Queen’ – New Zealand flax, the spiky plant just R of centre foreground.
– Picea glauca var. albertiana ‘Conica’ – dwarf white spruce, two of them, one behind the other, lower centre by path.
– Picea glauca var. albertiana ‘Conica’ – dwarf white spruce, two trees one behind the other, lower centre on Upper Rockery.
– Picea mariana ‘Nana’ – dwarf black spruce, lower centre by path.
– Platycladus orientalis ‘Beverleyensis’ – golden form of Eastern Thuja, in shade, L foreground.
– Prunus domesticus (presumably) – the neighbours’ plum tree, upper centre L, to L of Valrosa Cabin.
– Pyracantha, probably P. x watereri – in neighbours’ garden, growing against fence, lower R.
– Pyrus probably P. communis – common pear tree, in neighbours’ garden, top L.
– Quercus – probably Q. robur L., pedunculate oak, growing along fence behind a neighbouring garden, top R.
– Taxus baccata – yew, golden fastigiate form, probably ‘Standishii’ – front L in neighbour’s garden.’

Rosendale Allotments Association

  • Established in 1880 the Rosendale Allotments Association RAA has 480 plots on the site with plot holders and sharers from South London.
  • RAA is looking for votes in a competition to find a name for their periodic newsletter.
    • The Plot Thickens
    • Green Stuff
    • Hot Off The Plot
    • Green News Digest
  • In common with many other allotment sites RAA has had to suspend the waiting list as at current rate of turnover waiting time for an allotment on the site is estimated at twenty years.

Shed view
Other credits Shed view by coconinoco CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 with London skyline.

Hydrangeas Gardeners Tips

Hydrangeas Gardeners Tips

Hydra may be a monster but Hydrangeas can be stunningly beautiful.
Hydrangea

Hydrangea are easy to grow, voluminous shrubs with long lasting flower-heads. They can grow to be handsome 6 foot high and wide shrubs.

Growing Hydrangea Early autumn is the best time to plant new Hydrangeas. If planting in spring take more care with watering and mulch the plants to keep the soil damp. Hydrangeas grow best in semi shade in rich moist soil. Trim off old flower heads and dead stems in spring. Give them a balanced fertilizer in spring.

Choose the Right Variety Mophead or Hortensia hydrangeas are the type that have pompom like heads that open into a globe shape such as ‘Blue Bonnet’ or ‘Forever Pink’. Lacecap varieties have flat heads whose flowers do not open at the same time.
Quercifolias often have pyramid shaped white flowers and oak shaped leaves. Annabelle is the best known and well liked variety of Hydrangea arborescens.

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Help Change the Colour of Hydrangeas

Help Change the Colour of Hydrangeas

Hydrangea

What Causes and Changes Hydrangea Colour

  • Hydrangeas grown in the presence of metal salts, particularly Iron or Aluminium sulphates, will turn blue.
  • Plants growing in acid soil will turn the best form of blue but acid soil on its own is no guarantee of a blue Hydrangea.
  • Pale pink varieties tend to change to the deepest blue.
  • Dark pink varieties tend to turn mauve or muddy purple when treated with metal salts.
  • Blue varieties will seldom turn pink unless all the metal salts are washed out and withheld. Even then it may be a naturally pink variety.
  • You can buy a bluing agent or colourant from a garden centerelp change the colour from pink to blue. You can introduce metal salts in other ways like us to hing rusty nails or even tealeaves in the soil.

Hydrangea

Pot and Container Grown Hydrangeas

  • Hydrangeas need plenty of water – just a reminder. However they can be grown in pots both outdoors and as a houseplant.
  • Mix blueing agent if required with the soil when potting a hydrangea. Water weekly with a solution of water and colourant dissolved in a little hot water then diluted per the instructions on the packet.

thorpe perow hydrangea

Help White Hydrangeas

  • White varieties of Hydrangea will stay white despite the gardener.
  • As white flowers age they may take on a pink tinge to the outer-side of the petals.
  • White flowers will last longer with some shade before turning brown.
  • The Hydrangea panniculata Limelight pictured has a natural green tinge that looks very attractive under larger trees.

Coloured Hydrangeas

  • Mophead Hydrangea Macrophylla ayesha shown above is purple on this neutral London soil and flowers on previous seasons wood.
  • Most neutral and alkaline soils produce pink Hydrangeas whilst an acid soil will have a blue flower.
  • White Hydrangeas remain white or the bracts get tinged pink as they age.
  • These colour rules apply to Lacecap hydrangeas where the bract-petals don’t all open and have a looser more subtle effect.
  • To turn a pink Hydrangea blue add aluminium salts or iron salts. You can add by powder or colourant mixes.
  • A Pink hydrangea needs no aluminium and lime is used to restrict its uptake of metal salts.

Hydrangea

Other Hydrangeas

  • Hydrangea arborescens is smaller than many hydrangeas, they are around 3ft  height and spread. One of the best varieties is ‘Annabelle’ which is a mound forming shrub which is compact and requires little pruning. The flowers are a very showy, large and white.
  • Hydrangea paniculata are generally larger and have a large cone or pantical of flowers
  • Hydrangea quercifolia has large lobed leaves like oak leaves
  • Hydrangea anomala is a climbing plant that has attractive mahogany brown stems and lush, bright green, deciduous foliage. The lacecap flowers last just a few weeks in summer.

Further information on Grow healthy hydrangeas
Tips for Growing Hydrangeas and Hydrangea Aspera

Amazon supply Colourant to change hydrangeas click here

Simple Daffodils

Simple Daffodils

Autumn is a good time to think of planting some more daffodils for cutting or naturalising.

Daffodils
Daffodils near Bolton Abbey, Yorkshire

Daffodils are one of the easiest plants to grow. If basic care is given, the bulbs can flower year after year.

Planting Daffodils.

The best time for planting daffodils is in September and October. They can be planted in the green in late spring. But, usually do fine through planting in autumn.

The most important thing when planting daffodils is to plant them at the correct depth. As a basic guide the depth want to be 3 times the length of the bulb. E.g. if the bulb is 2.5 inches. They should be planted at a depth of 7-8 inches. However, it is better to err on the side of planting more deeply. Planting them more deeply makes it less likely they will dry out.

Feeding Daffodils

After flowering, it is advisable to sprinkle a fertilizer around the base of the leaves. This gives the chance for the bulbs to gain greater strength for future years.

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