So like everyone else you have weeds you want to ‘get rid of’ and here is how.

Physical Removal Methods

• Hand weeding is used when weeds grow amongst other plants. Take care to get all the root or bits may grow back.
• Hand forks work between other plants but for a larger area you need a proper fork. They are les effective for rhizomatous plant like couch grass and ground elder which tend to break and reestablish.
• Hoeing is ideal in vegetable beds. Draw a sharp blade just below the surface to cut weed roots. Most effective in dry periods when seedlings desiccate.
• Deep digging can bury the weeds. Pick out dandelion roots.
• Repeat strimming or cutting will weaken weeds but you need to be patient.
• Flame guns are useful on paths and hard surfaces but not always effective on deep rooted weeds.

Barrier Methods

• Black  plastic excluding light for 6-12 months will clear most weeds.
• Landscape fabric like Phormasil will do the job of plastic but allow water through.
• A thick layer of organic mulch will kill most weeds but may also introduce new seeds in the compost
• Inorganic mulch like aggregates needs to be 3 inches thick.
• Aesthetically such barrier methods may need a covering of gravel or mulch.

Chemical Killing

• Total weed killers remain active in the soil often for 6 months. They bare effective for large areas and on hard surfaces.
• Contact chemicals are best for annual weeds. There are some ‘organic’ versions based on natural acid based products.
• Systemic weed killers are absorbed in to the plant which then dies.
• Glyphosphate is non selective and is inactive after contact with the soil.
• Some stubborn or woody weeds need to have exposed surfaces to take up the poison
• Special chemical mixes have been formulated for lawns

Good weeding for next year – a year of seeds is 5 years of weeds.