Seed Sowing March

A great time to be getting your first crop of seeds sown.

The RHS seeds I ordered were late arriving but landed last week so I have 21 packets to sow this morning.

There is no need to cover very fine seeds or seeds that need light to germinate. This includes Begonia, Alliums, and Roscoea for example.
Covered with a layer of vermiculite most seeds will germinate in 30 days. If covering with compost reduce the depth of cover to little more than the size of the seed.
Slower germinating seeds should be covered with grit instead of vermiculite.
Place a glass or plastic propagating cover over the top to retain humidity and provide early protection. Ventilate as soon as seeds germinate.

Cold moist stratification involves giving seeds a period of frost or cold to break dormancy. These seeds may take over a year to germinate so do not give up hope. Try 12 weeks in the fridge if there is room.
Chipping (nicked with a knife or sandpaper) or softening seed coats may be needed for hard covered seeds like Lupins and Sweetpeas. This is to allow water to enter and start the germination proocess.
Warm stratification may be necessary to mature an embryo. Put the seeds in damp compost in an airing cupboard for a couple of weeks prior to sowing.

Use commonsense and read the seed packet. Follow the instructions where practical rather than slavishly.
Seeds are pre-programmed to grow to maintain the survival of the species – just give them half a chance.
Some seedlings resent root disturbance so sow where you want them to grow or in individual pots of a suitable size for the ultimate plant.
Do not be too greedy by planting too close, better 5 good plants than 20 poor weedy specimens.
Match the growing medium to the size of the seeds. Sow fine seeds in fine compost and bigger seeds in rougher compost
Beware of damping off – seedlings dying due to fungus before they grow leaves.

Gardeners Tips