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General gardening tips and hints

Seed Collecting in Autumn

Seed Collecting in Autumn

Seed collecting can be addictive. You may quickly discover you are surrounded by drying stems and paper bags but all you need is enough seeds for your immediate needs.

Shrubs may take a couple of years to develop into larger plants but you have an opportunity to increase your stock and potentially get a new cross.
Collect when the stem moves from green through yellow to brown when the seed is mature and ready. Cut the heads or stems and take inside a greenhouse, shed or garage to finally dry out hung over a sheet of paper. If seeds do not drop out naturally shake them into a paper bag. If collecting seed from berries clean away the flesh and dry the seed.

Popular Seeds
Poppy seedheads traditionally yield thousands of small black seeds from the saltshaker type head. Catch them when dry and the seed head rattles. Cut the heads and empty into a paper bag or envelope.
Foxgloves ripen progressively up the stem so to maximise seeds you may want to collect individual seed capsules. However they produce so many seeds that you may be content with taking all that are open and discarding the rest.
Some plants have ballistic mechanisms to fire seeds away from the mother plant like Pansys, Geraniums, Aquilegia and Acanthus. They need collecting and keeping in paper bags to catch the seed.
Calendula and sunflower have large seeds and are fun for kids to collect. I like Antirrhinums and plant seeds that bare a bit different or uncommon.
Not all seeds will grow true to the parent plant. Pick natural species if you want them to come true like Salvia pratensis, Lyichnis chalcedonia or Lythrum salicaria.


Mechanics of Seed Collecting

Clean the husks and plant debris away before storing the seed.
Mark the container with the variety, date collected and any notes you want to keep.
The colder and dryer, you keep the seed, the better.
Put some silica gel crystals in a lidded tupperware box with your seeds and keep them in the fridge.
Some seeds deteriorate quickly so sow by the following spring

Uses of Seeds and Seedheads

  • Poppy, Bean, Dill and Sunflower seeds are popular to eat.
  • Many other seeds feed birds through the winter so do not collect all the seed just for the sake of it.
  • Some empty seedheads look good in flower arrangements like Honesty (Lunaria) and Alliums
  • Giving excess seed away to friends or garden clubs can help other gardeners. Give them your advice as well.
  • Guerrilla gardening involves the spreading of seed in otherwise desolate places like dumping grounds and uncared for plots but only do it with care
Five Soil Types

Five Soil Types

Soil Color and Quality

There are potentially as many soils as there are gardens but they can be classified into five types.

Heavy Clay Soil

Minute particles of clay stick together in a gluey mess when wet and go rock hard when dry.
Often clay soil is very fertile. Clay soils can be improved with drainage, coarse grit, or the addition of coarse organic matter as humus.

Sandy Soil
Sand particles are much larger than clay making sandy soil free draining, light and quick to warm up in spring. Nutrients wash through quickly and watering and feeding of plants is needed. Sandy soil can be improved with the addition of humus.

Lime free Soil

Peaty or dark lime free soils are generally rich in organic matter. Acid in nature, below ph7.0, they tend to be moisture retentive and suit acid loving plants. In extremes they may be hard to re-wet if they dry out too much. Perennial plant selection

Alkaline Soil
Limey soils are often pale, shallow and stoney. They are free draining and quick to warm up in the sunshine. Moderately fertile they benefit from the addition of organic matter.

Average Soil

The dream of every gardener and found when soil has been well cultivated and enhanced for many seasons. Local conditions make a fixed definition hard but reasonable drainage and neutral to slightly acid soil makes for an average soil that is suitable for the majority of plants.

Soil Tips

Consider your own soil by looking at the colour, feeling the texture and observing the plants that grow best in yours or local soils.
Avoid boggy soil that will not drain as plants need air at their roots or they rot or drown. Airless soil also attracts moss.
Impoverished soils have the nutrients leached out with water or taken by earlier crops. Add back humus as well as general NPK fertilisers.

 

One spadeful of soil will be teaming with 1000’s of life forms

Credits
Soil Color and Quality by elvisripley CC BY-NC 2.0

Plant Labels, Minefield or Mine of Information

Plant Labels, Minefield or Mine of Information

This garden centre label is colourful and was surprisingly close in colour to the plant it was selling.

Beware of faded and cracked labels as this is a sign of UV deterioration and the plant will have been with the label for far too long.

Labels should be Informative

  • Labels should show the name of the plant in botanic terms (in this case Rhododendron)  and the variety in this case ‘Golden Eagle’. It often has the common name crucially missing in this case as it is a Knapp Hill Azalea.
  • Planting Instructions are usually fairly generic, in this case it mentions acid or ericaceous soil.
  • Cultural instructions include positioning, watering, feeding and where necessary pruning guidelines should be helpful.
  • A plant description giving height and spread in inches or cm, time of flowering, habit etc. Missing in this case as unlike most rhododendrons this is deciduous not evergreen.
  • It is a growing trend to include the growers details particularly where they want to impose some rights like Plant Beeders Rights

Keeping Labels

  • As far as I know there is no hobby of collecting plant labels like match boxes.
  • I keep my labels to remind me what I planted but do not put labels in the garden. May be I should reconsider as I forget more than I remember except where the Rosemary is planted!
  • Labels sometimes include the price and that amazes me years later when I think what I spent. The pre printed white tags are good for this.
  • Cut off the white tyvek tags and any bits of elastic without damaging the plant.

See more pictures of Golden Eagle

Read more about Labels Markers and Tags

Fantastic Fruiting Fungus

Fantastic Fruiting Fungus

The mushroom we see is the fruiting part of a fungus that distributes the spores of the fungus for its own reproduction.

Fungus Facts

  • Most fungi are small microorganisms that live in soil, on dead matter, or as a symbiont of plants or animals.
  • Fungi perform an essential role in the decomposition of organic matter and have fundamental roles in recycling nutrients.
  • The study of fungi is known as mycology, which is often regarded as a branch of botany
  • Yeasts and moulds are forms of fungi but slimes are not.
  • The Kingdom Fungi has been estimated to include approximately 1.5 million species, most of which have not been classified.

Read More Read More

Winterproofing your Garden

Winterproofing your Garden

Summer is over and we had the first Autumn frost last night 26th September. It was only a light frost and we have some cloud cover for the next few nights so it won’t be as cold tonight. Still I set-too to protect some plants.

Winter Plant Protection

  • Tender plants can be protected in a frost free environment. Conservatory plants left out for some summer sunshine should be brought back inside. This is true of Citrus fruit trees and Pelagoniums.
  • Insulate your greenhouse with bubblewrap and install a heater for really cold nights. Aim for a minimum temperature of 37°
  • Lift tender rhizomes of Cannas and Gladioli corms.
  • Prepare hessian or sacking to wrap the centre of tender plants like Tree Ferns and Palms.
  • Reduce watering and keep pot plants a bit on the dryer side.
  • Mulch or cover the growing crowns of perennials with bracken, dry leaves or compost.

Winter Maintenance Tips

  • Put terracotta pots on feet or raise onto bricks so they do not freeze to the earth or paths. Bring in none frost proof pots.
  • Clean up paths, greenhouse glass, garden furniture, bird feeders etc.
  • Retie or stake trees that may suffer from wind rock.

Causes of Winter Damage

  • Prolonged excess damp can be fatal to pot plants. In winter there is little or no drying effect.
  • Snow can break the branches of trees and the weight can damage conifers and evergreens.
  • Frost will damage soft fleshy growth easier than it will kill ripe twiggy growth. Camillia growers will know what frost can do to blossom.
  • Climate changes, prolonged cold snaps, unseasonal spring or summer weather and other changes can create ‘plant stress’ that shortens the plants life.

Other tips – Leave on holiday for hotter climates and return in spring.

Red Spider Mite Problems

Red Spider Mite Problems

Tetranychus urticae

 Habits of Red Spider Mites

  • Red Spider mites do not spin good webs. Proper spiders make symmetrical and neat webs.
  • You can recognise infections if the web is feeble and scraggy with tiny white flecks on some of the strands (this is dead mite skins).
  • You can also detect mites by placing white paper under a leaf and tapping several times. If infested some of the mites will fall from their hiding under leaves and away from direct light on to the paper.  If you see red dots scampering around and you have your work cut out although they start green in spring turning red later in the summer.
  • Mites pierce the skin of leaves and suck sap causing paling then red or yellow spots. This then leaves a fine white powder and leaves begin to fall off.

Problem Control and Prevention

  • Few plants are immune and indoor Cistus, Dracaena, Citrus, Podocarpus and even Aspidistra are susceptible.
  • Tomato and greenhouse plants also suffer.
  • Crocosomia, dahlia, fuchsia, runner beans and soft fruit are also susceptible.
  • Mite move easily from plant to plant and are so small that drafts can blow them from one plant to another. Isolation is the first option.
  • Mites find a hot dry environment a delight, whilst mites abhor humid conditions so try frequent misting to discourage mites.
  • Submerging plants in a stream of warm water or hosing off out doors may help.
  • Spray with soapy water or plant oils paying attention to the undersides of leaves and leave to dry.
  • Biological control with Phytoseiulus persimilis is effective in warm areas.
  • Malathion pesticide can be used, mix with water and a drop of soft soap but keep the spray away from cacti and ferns.
  • Systemic granular pesticide is a last alternative.

Sources
Tetranychus urticae Female of the red form of the spider mite
Scale : mite body length ~0.5 mm
Creative commons by Gilles San Martin, on Flickr
Chuck Crandall ‘Whats wrong with my plant?’

RHS the Tetranychus urticae is also known as Two Spotted Spider Mite

Compost and Fungus Gnats the Little Critters

Compost and Fungus Gnats the Little Critters

I have no photographs of fungus Gnats because they are very small, little critters like miniature flies.
Houseplants with wet compost attract and breed gnats and the more organic matter the greater the brood of little flies. Fungus gnats are the most common flying insects found in and around compost bins.

Problems with Fungus Gnats

  • On their own they do no damage to your plants but their offspring will.
  • The Gnats or flies lay eggs on the surface of damp houseplant compost.
  • The eggs hatch into minute white maggots that burrow into the soil. Here they can bore there way into roots leaving them open to infection and bacterial diseases.
  • Gnat maggots can eat feeder roots and weaken plants or generate chlorsis.
  • I also find they are the sort of fly that ends up in your eye.
  • Susceptible plants include Chrysanthemum, Cyclamen, Freesia and Pelagoniums.

Control of Fungus Gnats

  • Allow soil to dry out completely before watering to kill the flies.
  • Drown the maggots by leaving plants in a bucket of water over night but then drain throughly.
  • For heavy infestations Malathion kills maggots and eggs.
  • I rely on a fly paper with a sticky glue to catch the flies before they breed.
  • Half fill a shallow container with ‘Sweet Almond Oil’ and place near an infested plant. Leave it and the flies find it irresistible and meet a sticky end. Another recipe is apple cider vinegar, a little water and a tiny dab of dish soap. the gnats love it and
    drown
  • Venus fly traps would be fun but may not eat enough
  • In the garden, wormwood is supposed to be an excellent deterrent
  • Cover your indoor composting bin

See also Which Gardening pdf on fungus gnats

Spiders as Treatment for Aphids

Spiders as Treatment for Aphids

Green Island Garden

Yes you can rest happily with this organic treatment for your Aphids. It is called ‘spiders’ and they can be found in every garden and often in your own home.

Spiders

  • There are over 100 families and nearly 50,000 known species of Spider.
  • Spiders eat insects and not your plants although there is one vegetarian species of spider.
  • Spiders typically catch their prey in a Spiders Web as depicted on the plant above

Spiders Webs in the Garden

  • Orb webs are geometric in shape and often have gaps that any self respecting greenfly can get through.
  • Tangle webs or cob webs are finer in structure and designed for smaller prey.
  • Most spiders webs are more conspicuous when they hold dew drops or moisture.
  • About half the potential prey that hit orb webs escape, so it isn’t a cure for Aphids after all.
  • A web intercepts the prey, absorbs its momentum without breaking and traps the prey by entangling it or sticking to it.

Spiders are Good for Gardens

  • Read more from Cornell University Dr Linda Rayor
  • How to Increase the Number of Spiders in Your Garden

* Use mulch. It provides protection and humidity.
* Provide places for web attachment or homes eg. Crates, tall plants, bundles of hay.
* Leave areas uncultivated and leave plant stalks for overwintering habitats.
* Grow flowers that bring in prey.
* If spraying pesticides, spray when the spiders are less active or use a pesticide that has fewer effects on the spiders.

Book Cover

A spiders ‘evo devo’ and the silk they produce (that is Evolutionary Sevelopment to you and me) is hard science mixed with good writing. from amazon

Treating Root Rot in Houseplants

Treating Root Rot in Houseplants

Qargha Res Station - Pepper plants infected with Phytophthora Root and Crown Rot

 

Root Rot is a common fungus orientated disease caused by prolonged wet soil conditions. If you catch the problem early enough you may be able to treat the root rot and save the plant.

Root Rot Treatment

  • Surgery may be required. Knock the plant out of its pot and gently remove the soil.
  • Support the root ball so it doesn’t break off at the crown. If necessary wash off excess soil in wark running water.
  • Examine the roots, any blackened or mushy brown root need removing.
  • Cut off with a sharp, sterile knife well above the area of rot.
  • Discard the rotten roots and pat remaining roots dry with a paper towel.
  • Dust with a fungicide like flowers of sulphur.
  • Dip into hormone rooting powder and repot in fresh soil.
  • Put the plant in medium light, not full sun and be stingy with watering.
  • If the plant is going to survive you will see good signs within  a week or two.

For mild problems of over watering take the plant out of the pot and leave it to drain and dry out.

Hormone rooting powder can also be used for cuttings and is available from Amazon

 

Root Rot Indoor Targets

  • African Violets
  • Aloe
  • Begonia
  • Cactus
  • Gloxinia
  • Palme
  • Kalanchoe

Credits
Qargha Res Station – Pepper plants infected with Phytophthora Root and Crown Rot by IFDC Photography CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Growing Convolvulus Cneorum

Growing Convolvulus Cneorum

Madiera mch11 220

Convolvulus is synonymous with bindweed that grows in poor soil and is notably hard to eradicate. However there are some species of Convovulus that are worth a space in a Mediterranean style garden.

Convolvulus cneorum is a compact evergreen shrub with narrow, oblong, silvery leaves. The numerous flowers are funnel-shaped white flushed with pink when in bud.
Grow in well-drained soil or gritty compost in a sheltered spot in full sun.
The plants are not frost hardy.

Convolvulus White Ensign (Flash Seeds) is a dwarf Morning Glory with clusters of white, trumpet flowers with yellow centres!

Convolvulus Eneorum will withstand a north facing or east facing wall but also dislikes heavy frost. The grey leaved shrubs can grow to 3 foot high and wide.

Resources

Organic Control of Bindweed

Weedkillers for Bindweed

Book Cover

Roundup Weedkiller concentrate

Book Cover

Handy spray gun,