Gardening Products

Tips for the Gardener

Easy Hanging Baskets

Posted: May 3rd, 2010 | Author: hortoris | Filed under: Products | Tags: Display | No Comments »

Ideal for annuals, tumbler tomatoes or a winter arrangement a well furnished hanging basket adds a new dimension to any garden or outdoor space.

  • Select your baskets for aesthetic values because they will attract everyones eye.
  • Keep your baskets filled, watered and cared for and locate them in a sunny position.
  • Flower pockets and single seasons use baskets are low cost and good value and usually made from plastic or a compostable liner.
  • Wrought Iron baskets can last many years and be replanted as required.
  • Aim to use large baskets, a 14″ will hold more than double the compost a 10″ basket holds.

Credit for photo ‘Sentinel’ exfordy on flickr


Path Cleaning and Cleaners

Posted: May 1st, 2010 | Author: hortoris | Filed under: Products | 5 Comments »

I have previously only used chemicals to remove moss and algae on paths but this winter has left more problems than usual and I am looking to buy a Karcher pressure washer . There are a range to choose from at Focus see pressure washers.

The chemical alternatives

  • The strongest chemicals I have used are Trichlorates as used by farmers to clean milking parlors. They are strong alkalines and you must avoid run off onto your soil.
  • Path clear Moss & Algae Killer destroys moss, algae and lichens on all kinds of hard surfaces including decking, brick paving, patios, fences, sheds, glass, perspex, garden furniture, walls, paved areas and driveways.It is available from most garden centers and Amazon.
  • I have not tried patio magic, a concentrate for cleaning decking and patios but it comes recommended

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Path Cleaning and Cleaners
Garden Disinfectants
Best Weed Killers
Wood Care
Fence Care


Plant Theatre and Display Methods

Posted: April 30th, 2010 | Author: hortoris | Filed under: Products | Tags: showing | No Comments »


Display your favourite plants at varying heights in a Plant Theatre.

  • This type of display shelving allows you to raise the plants you have raised closer to eye level.
  • The depth of field is increased.
  • You can show more plants in less floor space
  • Plant Theatres can be free standing or wall mounted

A Plant Theatre in pale blue painted wood costs circa £34.99

Wall mounts can display your potted plants in a vertical manner at low cost. It also disguises a bare brick wall in the picture shown below.

a good - b use 019

Alternative Design Plant Theatre with stainless pots as an extra from to provide a stunning display


Modern Garden Furniture

Posted: April 29th, 2010 | Author: tejvan | Filed under: Uncategorized | No Comments »

garden-furniture

Tasteful Garden furniture

Modern Garden Furniture is a matter of taste. The advantage of plastic garden furniture is that it is much more weather resilient and can often be easily folded.

However, if it is cheap plastic, it will look and feel cheap. Many trends are heading back to ‘retro’ style furniture and the classic wood furniture which blends in with the surroundings.

Garden Furniture at Focus DIY

garden-furniture

Old Style garden furniture which has attracted an old style user.


Best Weedkillers

Posted: April 28th, 2010 | Author: tejvan | Filed under: Weeds and Treatments | No Comments »

Amicide (Ammonium Sulphamate) is an effective weedkiller, but, unfortunately no longer available commercially. It is particularly effective at killing strong weeds like horsetail.
You can sometimes find on ebay. People offer it as a compost accelerator with strict instructions not to use as a weedkiller.

Glyphosate

Glyphosate is the most commonly available weedkiller on the market. It is sold under brand names such as Round Up.
The good thing about Glyphosate is that it is safe and soon breaks down on contact with the soil. It is systemic which means it works its way down the plant into the roots. It also doesn’t kill the plant straight away which is good as it gives time for weedkiller to work its way down into roots.

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  • Roundup Weedkiller concentrate. Good for large areas which need treating.

In some countries it is actually accepted as an organic weedkiller. But, not in the UK.

It’s only drawback is that you will need repeated applications for strong and resilient weeds such as horsetail and bindweed.

Related

  • Tips for Weeding a garden
  • Weedkillers at Amazon.co.uk
  • Weedkillers at Focus DIY
  • Invasive Weeds
  • Weed management at BBC

Path Cleaning and Cleaners
Garden Disinfectants
Best Weed Killers
Wood Care
Fence Care


Horsetail Eradication

Posted: April 27th, 2010 | Author: tejvan | Filed under: Weeds and Treatments | 7 Comments »

Horsetail is a tough weed. Great Horsetail (Equisetum telmateia telmateia), has been around for over 60 million years, so don’t be surprised if it is tough to get rid of!

It is not impossible to remove, but, you will need patience and perseverance.

Dealing With Horsetail

  1. Digging Horsetail.
  • The problem with horsetail is that its roots can be over 1 metre under the ground. Also the roots are very thin and easily break.
  • However, at the start of a horsetail clearance it is worth trying to dig some of the higher roots from the soil as this will weaken the food reserves and plant.
  • The important thing is to wait for the soil to dry out, as this makes it easier to dig more of the root out. If you have a light crumbly soil it will be more easier. It is difficult in a clay soil.
  • Dig the spade a foot into the ground and look out for the black roots, shake away the soil and try and keep as much of the root as possible.
  • One problem with digging horsetail is that if you break up the roots into many different pieces you may actually end up creating more plants, as it only needs one inch of root to regenerate. Never use a cultivator.
  • Important: Before putting roots on compost, make sure you leave for a few days to dry out (or alternatively you can dunk in water).
  • The horsetail will almost certainly return. You can try repeatedly hoeing until the plant loses all energy. But, prepared to do it frequently and repeatedly. It may take more than one growing season.

Weedkiller for Horsetail.

  • Glyphospate (Round UP) does damage the plant. After repeated applications you should be able to kill the plant.
    Try crushing the leaves before applying the weedkiller, this enables the weedkiller to get right into the plant. After a day or so, the weedkiller will turn the leaves brown – a sign it has damaged it. The plant will regrow, but, after 5 or 6 applications the weed should be killed off. Hopefully!

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  • Roundup Weedkiller concentrate. Good for large areas which need treating.

Related

  • Weedkillers at Amazon.co.uk
  • Weedkillers at Focus DIY

How To Reduce Disease in the Greenhouse

Posted: April 26th, 2010 | Author: tejvan | Filed under: Pests and Problems | 1 Comment »

How To Reduce disease in the Greenhouse

  • Keep Floor very clear and tidy.
  • Remove any dead or decaying material.
  • For certain disease it is better to burn the infected material or put in household rubbish. Some slow compost heaps may be insufficient to ensure disease is killed.
  • Make Sure there is a good airfloor. Install vents at base of greenhouse as well as using windows at top. Make sure there is an airflow from door to other end of the greenhouse.
  • Be careful of using spent compost. Using fresh compost makes better chance of avoiding disease.
  • Be careful of using stagnant water from a water butt. If in doubt use fresh water.
  • Rotate plants. Don’t grow tomatoe plants in the same soil year after year, it is asking for disease.
  • Use Grow bags as a way to ensure fresh soil and infection.
  • Clean all pots and glass at the end of the year with a Jeyes Fluid.

How Do Biological Pest Controls Work?

Posted: April 25th, 2010 | Author: tejvan | Filed under: Pests and Problems | Tags: Pests and Problems | 2 Comments »

Biological controls are the introduction of natural predators so they will kill or at least contain the pest population. For each different pest, you will need a different predator. This is a potential drawback, but, usually, you will only be affected by one or two at a time.

Pests

  • Ant – Pathogenic Nematode – Steinernema Feltiae
    Aphid – Parasitic Wasp lava – Aphidius Species
    Mealy Bug – Pathogenic Nematode – Cryptolaemus Montrouzieri
    Red Spider Mite – Predatory Mite – Phytosieuslus Persimilis
    Scale Insect – Parasitic Wasp – Metaphycus Helvolus
    Slug – Pathogenic Nematode – Phasmarhabdita
    Whitefly – Parasitic Wasp – Encarsia Formosa

Biological control may need particular conditions for the predators to flurish. usually they do better in warm conditions (but not too hot). Nematodes for slugs need damp conditions.

The great thing about Biological control is that they can be used with other organic methods, but, once introduced you cannot start spraying with chemicals as you will kill predators too.

Related

  • Pros and Cons of Biological Pest Control
  • Biological Pest Control at Jersey Direct
  • Biological Pest Control at Amazon

Best Greenhouse Shading

Posted: April 25th, 2010 | Author: tejvan | Filed under: Constructions and Greenhouses | No Comments »

greenhouse shading

What is best way to Shade a Greenhouse from summer sun?

There are a few different options with different costs and ease of use.

1. Shade Paint.

Shading paint can be applied at the start of the summer and removed when the hot spell is over. However, it isn’t very attractive. Also, there is no in between.

2. Rollers.

Rollers are very effective in reducing heat. They can also be adjusted depending on the day. Also, once in place they don’t have to be removed and reapplied each year. The drawback with rollers is that they need more daily maintenance.

3. Netting.

A green netting is more attractive than shade paint. Though it is a little more cumbersome to remove and put in place.

4. Damping Down / Airflow. This is not shading a greenhouse, but it can help prevent the greenhouse overheating in summer. Water helps remove some heat, but, leaves may still be vulnerable to scorching.

  • Different Types of Greenhouse shading at Amazon

Related

  • Greenhouse Shading
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Dealing With Greenhouse Pests

Posted: April 24th, 2010 | Author: tejvan | Filed under: Uncategorized | No Comments »

General Principles for dealing with pests

  • Companion Planting – plants like marigolds can attract natural predators like hoverflies
  • Keep Greenhouse space clean and tidy so slugs and snails don’t have anywhere to hide.
  • Check regularly for damage before too late. Use magnifying glass and check underside of leaves.
  • Keep plants strong and vigorous so they are more resistant.

Dealing with Specific Pests
Red Spider Mite

Red spider mite are tiny insects almost invisible to the naked eye. They cause yellowing  and mottling of leaves.

Prevention – avoid periods of drying out and overwatering. They thrive in dry atmosphere, so spray the underside of leaves and dampen down the greenhouse. Also, you can introduce biological control

Whitefly

Whitefly can soon take over a greenhouse. They suck sap and makes the leaves turn yellow. If you tap leaves, you will notice a white powder fall off. Can be dealt with through biological spray or proprietary pest control.

Vine Weavil.

Once an adult lays eggs, they can cause real damage to plant roots causing whole plants to drop at stem and die.

Check overwintered compost. Look out for adults who might be laying eggs. Can be dealt with by parasitic nematodes, but, the worst of the damage may have occurred.

Slugs and Snails.

Keep greenhouse floor clear of any debris that may give them hiding places.  Also keep the floor dry except where watering. For slugs you can use a whole variety of methods depending on your preference.

  • Slug Pellets
  • Beer Traps
  • Parasitic Nemotodes.
  • Go Hunting in Evening with a pair of scissors

Related

  • Dealing With Slugs and Snails
  • Pest Control at Amazon

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