Description & Growing Deciduous Azalea

• All Azalea are Rhododendron but not all Rhododendron are Azaleas. Now we have that as clear as a muddy pond what is an Azalea?
• An Azalea can be an evergreen or deciduous flowering shrub with pale or startling coloured blooms.
• Some Azaleas are scented whilst others are without scent. Whatever you think about deciduous Azaleas, ‘muddy and boring’ they are not.
• Azalea are some of the most gay and brilliant flowering shrubs yet grown.
• For the technically minded Azaleas are in the genus Rhododendron, with evergreen azaleas in the subgenus Tsutsusi and deciduous azaleas in the subgenus Pentanthera.

Varieties & Hybrids of Deciduous Azalea for Growing

• The species have been much crossed and bred but the scented Rhododendron luteum and Rhododendron japonica are available as species.
• Knapp Hill hybrids are amongst the most colourful deciduous Azaleas.
• The Ghent hybrids have sweetly scented, honeysuckle-shaped flowers with long stamen emarging from the tube.
• The Rhododendron Mollis Azaleas are crossed between Rhododendron mollis and Rhododendron japonicum
• Rustica hybrids have fragrant double flowers and Occidentale hybrids flower in late May
• The Exbury range were bred by Lionel de Rothschild who loved deciduous azaleas and carried out much breeding work to enhance colours and scent. The Solent Range was started by George Hyde a private grower in Dorset but bought for Exbury (Images).
• For specimen plants Azalea Coccinea Speciosa or R obtusum are recommended

Cultivation and Soil for Deciduous Azalea

• Azaleas need an acid soil, pH 4.5-6.0 is best. Prepare the soil well and over a good area as the plants will be in-situ for many years.
• Roots are fibrous and tend to be near the surface so don’t hoe too closely
• Azaleas are relatively pest-free, forgiving and easy to grow plants. They like to be mutually supporting so closer planting (say 3 feet for stronger growers) is better for general health.
• Mulch with at least an inch of peat, pine bark or wood chips to keep moisture in the ground, allow air into the soil, even out changes in the soil temperature and keep weeds down.

Cultivation and Watering for Deciduous Azalea

• Azaleas like moist soil at their roots. This may require supplemental watering at least until plants are established in the ground for a few years.
• Adequate water after flowering helps to produce more flower buds for next year.
• An infrequent deep soaking is more effective than superficial sprinkling. If the Autumn has been dry water well before winter.
• Azaleas do not like “wet feet”. Good drainage can be provided by planting azaleas with the tops of their root balls a few inches above ground level and mounding the soil up to the plants particularly on heavy clay soil. Moss growing on the soil is an indication of chronic bad drainage.

Unusual Facts about Deciduous Azales

• As a woodland tree Azaleas except Mollis hybrids like shade and the flowers last longer.
• Flowers start before the leaves are fully open

Old & Odd Tips From Gardeners Tips

• More sun typically produces a more compact plant. You may get more blooms but they will not last as long.
• Established azaleas do not need fertilizer but a little sulphate of ammonia in spring gives a nitrogen boost and water in potash if flowering is poor. Undertake any fertilising in late winter or early spring so you do not encourage sappy growth that may be killed in a cold winter.

‘Azaleas are flowering shrubs comprising two of the eight subgenera of the genus Rhododendron, Pentanthera (deciduous) and Tsutsuji (evergreen). Azaleas bloom in spring, their flowers often lasting several weeks. Shade tolerant, they prefer living near or under trees.’

Horticultural Sources and Links about Deciduous Azaleas

• Glendoick in Scotland is a great nursery specialising in Rhododendrons and they have some grand Deciduous Azaleas
• Burncoose Gardens Burncoose Gardens
• Cally Gardens Cally Gardens in South West Scotland)
• Glenwhan Gardens Glenwhan Gardens

Photo Credits
Deciduous azalea by Eric Hunt CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Rhododendron occidentale #4 by J.G. in S.F. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Orange deciduous Azalea by wallygrom CC BY-SA 2.0
Azalea by dmott9 CC BY-ND 2.0
Azalea Berry Rose flower by Herms56 CC BY-NC 2.0

Description, Cultivation and Growing Tips for Globeflower

• Globeflower is a herbaceous perennial plant that generally flowers yellow in spring or early summer.
• They are another meadowland plant closely related to the buttercup but flower 1-3 feet tall depending on variety.
• Globeflowers are easy to grow, disease resistant and good for cutting.
• Keep the soil moist, they like a boggy soil that isn’t too wet in winter.
• Mulch with an organic compost in winter to protect the roots.
• Plants will grow and flower in partial shade.

Common Names and Varieties of Globeflower

• Globeflower is the common name for Trollius which is a family of around 20 species and many hybrids and cultivars.
• The petals of Trollius europaeus are curved over the top of the flower to appear like a ball or spherical globe giving the plant its common name.
• Many of the other species such as Trollius chinensis have more open, flatter flowers. Golden Queen is a variety with prominent stamens that form a crown on the head of each flower. It grows taller than most varieties and the flowers can be 2-3 inches across.
• Trollius europeaeus ‘Superbus’ has an AGM and is readily available.
• Lemon Queen, Fireglobe and Canary bird are descriptive varieties for growing.

Unusual Facts about Globeflower

• All Globeflowers and Trollius species are poisonous to cattle and other livestock but not butterflies which thrive on the leaves.
• The globe is formed by the inward curve of the sepals and there are no true petals.
• Pale yellow flowering Alabaster tones well with Lobelia cardinalis which also enjoys a wet soil

Old & Odd Tips From Gardeners Tips – Globeflower

• Collect the seed from your own plants and sow immediately whilst the seed is fresh.
• In our experience the plants do not transplant easily. Sow seed where you want them to flower.

Horticultural Sources and Advice

• Globeflower are slow clump formers with a mass of fibrous roots.
• You can often obtain seeds or plants from our mail order company of choice Thompson & Morgan
• Hybrids of Globeflowers are labeled Trollius x cultorum and are probably crosses between three species: Trollius europaeus, Trollius asiaticus and Trollius chinensis.

Credits
Trollius europaeus ‘Superbus’ Globeflower and Trollius chinensis ‘Golden Queen’ Globeflower by KingsbraeGarden CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Trollblumen by vasile23 CC BY 2.0
Globe Flower, Die Trollblume, Trollius europaeus by Dandelion And Burdock CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Maj 2005 by Isfugl,CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Forget-me-not Cultivation and Growing Tips

• These plants are very easy to grow from seed. Sow one year and they flower the next because most varieties are biennials.
• Forget-me-nots are usually blue but are also found in pink and white and shades of blue.
• Forget-me-nots are dwarf, compact plants upto a foot tall! A fantastic addition to spring beds and borders.
• The plants complement golden Daffodils yellow Wallflowers and Primulas.
• Sow May -June and thin out. Plants self sow all over my garden so clear out any invaders.
• Plants can also be purchase to avoid the problems of sowing your own.

Forget-me-not Common Names and Varieties to Consider

• Myosotis is the Latin name for Forget-me-nots. It is a family of 50 species. See main varieties at the foot of this page
• Historically it got the name ‘mouse ears’ due to the shape of its leaves.
• Varieties to look out for include Ultramarine and Blue ball or for Alpine Forget-me-nots ‘Ruth Fisher’.

Unusual Facts about Forget-me-nots

• Newfoundland in Canada used the Forget-me-not as a symbol of remembrance of that nation’s war dead.
• Germans and Freemasons use forget-me-nots as a symbol not to forget the poor and desperate. (Germany may need a good crop with the economy in such a state.)

Old & Odd Tips From Gardeners Tips on Forget-me-nots

• Plant in drifts around the edge of ponds.
• Pull up and compost plants as they finish flowering – you will still get lots of seedlings.
• Use forget-me-nots as a cut flower when in bud to prolong vase life.

Horticultural Sources and Advice on Forget-me-not

• You can often obtain seeds or plants from our mail order company of choice Thompson & Morgan
• Powdery mildew can be a problem in dry soil. Pull up and destroy infected plants.
• Species include; Myosotis alpestris – Alpine Forget-me-not
  Myosotis arvensis – Field Forget-me-not
  Myosotis asiatica – Asiatic Forget-me-not
  Myosotis azorica – Azores Forget-me-not
  Myosotis caespitosa – Tufted Forget-me-not
  Myosotis discolor – Changing Forget-me-not
  Myosotis latifolia – Broadleaf Forget-me-not
  Myosotis laxa – Tufted Forget-me-not, Bay Forget-me-not
  Myosotis scorpioides – True Forget-me-not
  Myosotis secunda – Creeping Forget-me-not
  Myosotis sicula – Jersey Forget-me-not
  Myosotis sylvatica – Wood Forget-me-not
  Myosotis verna – Spring Forget-me-not

Credits
forget-me-nots by Mags CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Dandelion and Forget-me-nots (1) by Purrrpl_Haze CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Flowers from my granny’s garden by sermoa CC BY-SA 2.0

Top Ten Selection

1. Little Beauty 5″ with white perianth and yellow corona
2. Rip Van Winkle
3. Sun Disc a consistent bulb with round disc shaped yellow flower.
4. Hawera with reflex bachward pointing petals
5. Petrel has several ivory-white hanging flowers per stem.
6. Segovia -with a white perianth contrasted by a neat lemon cup
7. Snipe A classic 5″ tall white cyclamineus type with a green tinge.
8. Baby Moon late flowering and scented jonquilla type.
9. Baby Doll with pink cups and a nice scent.
10. La Belle with yellow flowers and shallow coronas in orange-yellow with a distinct reddish-orange rim

Daffodils are organised into groups and classes called divisions. Read more about Daffodil divisions that encompass miniature daffodils and narcissus varieties.

Tips on Miniature Daffodil and Narcissus

• Look in spring for successful varieties that you may want to buy for planting this Autumn.
• Buy pots in bloom this spring so you know what you are getting. Deadhead before the seedheads start to develop and feed the bulbs with a high phosphate feed.
• One of the smaller varieties is Bulbocodium Conspicuous, yellow hooped petticoat at 4 inches tall with golden yellow flowers.
• The scented Jonquilla has a couple of varieties that are low growing including Jonquil Single, Sugarbush and the ivory white flowered apricot cup of Waterperry.
• Cyclamineus varieties tend to be low growing. One of the most popular is the Tete-a-Tete with fluted golden trumpets which bulks up quite well year on year.
• For something different try the double Rip Van Winkle or the pinky yellow Nanus.
• Place your order from a reputable bulb supplier during summer so that you get the varieties you want before the best bulbs are sold out. The best time to plant miniature daffodils is from September until mid October. They like to make long roots before flowering and fully produce their leaves first. .

Try growing Narcissus bulbocodium ‘Golden Bells’ commonly called the Hoop Petticoat Daffodil! Bulbs from Thompson & Morgan

Cyclamineus – Div 6 are eye-catching daffodils with reflex petals.
Triandrus Daffodils – Div 5 are a result of breeding from the species N.triandrus. There are mid flowering height and usually 2 to 5 delightful hanging flowers per stem. Available from the Miniature Bulb Co
The Daffodil Society has a list of other bulb suppliers

Ten Plants for Sun

• Petunia are treated as annuals that flower prolifically in a sunny spot.
• Passion flowers show there true colours in the sun
• French Marigolds, Tagetes and African Marigolds are vibrant after being baked in the sunshine for 6 hours a day
• Olive trees and Figs need both the light and heat from the sun.
• Lavender flowers best in full sun and this helps the natural scented oils to develop.
• Sunflowers and Viola family members are plants that turn there flower heads to the sun to maximise the light they get.
• Already I have covered 10 plants for full sun but add Fuchsias, Carnations and Phlox for cottage garden splendor.

Ten Plants for Shade

• Shade plants are less likely to have strong coloured flowers but Foxgloves give a good splash of colour.
• In deep shade think of good leaf shape and form from plants like Ferns or Hostas
• Dog woods or Cornus are grown for their coloured stems but also have small flowers
• Hebe like the variety Green Globe have a fresh green appearance in shade.
• Snowdrops in late winter followed by Dicentrica Bleeding Heart offer show colour in shade.
• Asters and Camelias will tolerate shade but prefer partial shade.
• Japanese Acers, Bay trees and Box are OK in shade.

Ten Tips about Light for Plants

• All plants have an ideal exposure to light levels and ‘time in the sun’. Try to accommodate your best plants in appropriate areas.
• As a rule of thumb 5 or more hours of direct sunlight is ‘full sun’, less than 2 hours is ‘shade’ and in between is ‘partial shade’.
• No plants survive in total dark ( fungus and mushrooms may grow) but filtered dark will allow Ivy and Aspidistra to survive although probably not thrive.
• Brightest coloured flowers are often those needing most sun but remember water also brings out the strength of colour.
• Beware the shade created by taller plants and trees.
• Shady areas can be quite dry so be prepared to water if needed. Most plants in shade like a fertile soil
• Bought plants often have an indication on the label as to the amount of light/sun required. Read the label before you buy.
• Dappled shade can be good for plants with ‘thin leaves’ like salad crops.
• Compare other gardens to see what is planted where and how well plants do in shade or full sun.
• Mediterranean and South African flowering plants generally enjoy sunny conditions at home so they expect that in our gardens

If we are lucky to have a full complement of all five senses we are fortunate gardeners. At different times of our life these senses may wax and wain, I for one can no longer read the small print on seed packets nor hear my wife when she asks me to do something other than gardening.

Gardeners would garden just for the sheer pleasure but they also want to take into account and compensate for those with impaired senses. Here are some suggestions to help focus on the five senses one at a time but the pleasure is doubled by combining plants that augment all the senses. I you have focal points for viewing what do you call points for touching, smelling, hearing and tasting?

Five Senses – Sight

• Bold colours spring to mind and one favourite is the brash Sunflower but in the veg garden Swiss Chard ‘traffic Lights’ is most colourful
• Different shapes and contrasting leaves can be added via Heuchera or Hostas. Ornaments and statues are good for creating focal points.
• White and yellow flowers start in spring with Snowdrops and Daffodils and continue through a variety of annuals and perennials. I suggest a range of Marigolds and Roses will give pleasure.
• Birds and butterflies are natural sights in a well balance garden

Five Senses – Sound

• Close your eyes and listen to your garden. Birds and insects add a vibrancy to your garden so attract them with appropriate plants.
• Trees with open canopies like birch and beech are great rustlers in a breeze.
• Bamboos sway in the breeze and if you can stand the added noise make a wind chime from the dried hollow stems.
• If you have running water so much the better. I saw a deer scarer run by solar power in a garden this week.

Five Senses – Touch

• Use pathways and lawn edges for the plants you most want to touch and hide away the spiky and prickly devils.
• Textured leaves like the hairy Lambs tails or Silver Sage are very touchable.
• Flowering grasses are airy and good for running your hands through.
• Again an appropriate statue can be stroked and petted.

Five Senses – Taste

• Herbs and vegetable come out strongly in the taste sense. Who would be without strawberries some varieties of which can now be grown in hanging baskets or containers.
• Mint, Rosemary and Lavender are old fashioned stand-byes for strong taste and the plus of scent.
• Members of the onion family including chives garlic and shallots have there own appeal.

Five Senses – Smell

• Sweet smelling garden Pinks and Chocolate Cosmos attract more garden visitors than you would imagine.
• Sweet Peas are my all time favourite and you can pick bunches for indoors throughout the flowering season.
• Over breeding has reduced the scent of some plants so smell before you buy at your local nursery or scrounge plants from other gardeners where you know the pedigree of the smell.

Cultivation and Growing Tips for Pompom Daisies

• Bellis perennis is the name of the small common daisy found in great profusion growing in lawns. Pom Pom Daisy is the cultivated double daisy that makes a good spring flowering ornamental plant.
• Grow from seed sown in late spring/early summer outdoors in a sheltered, shady site in a well prepared seed bed about ¼in deep.
• Germination usually takes 14-21 days.
• Thin seedlings out to 4-6in apart when they are large enough to handle and finally transplant to flowering site in autumn in sun or part shade for flowering the following spring.
• Bellis perenis Pom Poms are great for small beds, edging, windowboxes etc.
• Greenfly love to eat the tender leaves so keep an eye open in case you need to treat the plants

Common Names and Varieties of Pom Poms to Consider

• Pompom daisies are available in red, pink and white. You can buy them as self colours or in mixed packets of seed
• ‘Tasso Mixed’ is one of the best pomponette bellis ever introduced! Flowers are larger than normal pom – pom types, on compact, short, strong flower stems. The bright colours of rose, deep rose, red and white, will all give excellent results
• ‘Petite Pom Pom’ and ‘Pomponette’ have rosettes of mid-green leaves with narrow stems topped with pink, dark pink and white pompons from early spring to autumn.

Old & Odd Tips From Gardeners Tips

• Pom Pom daisies look good in containers, rockeries and paired with Tulips.
• Deadheading will prolong flowering or leave to seed and collect for next season.
• Will grow in some shade and withstand an open windy position

Credits

Buy more varieties of Daisies at Thompson & Morgan

Many common weeds found in lawns and grass are appealing wild flowers. They look best in a meadow setting and not in a manicured lawn.

Lawn with stripes nor weeds

Problems with Lawn Weeds

• Low growing lawn weeds escape the cut of the lawnmower and can eventually create a mass of leaves that throttles the fine grasses.
• Lawn weeds can host pests and disease and create unsightly flat patches by smothering the grass.
• Lawn weeds are ugly or make a tidy lawn look unkempt.

Dandelions produce prodigious amounts of fertile seed that seems to germinate well amongst grass in the lawn.
Their deep tap roots need to be fully removed or killed to prevent a reinfestation of Dandelions. They can be spot weeded by hand or by using a spot-touch weed killer.

The common Daisy is a low growing weed that hugs the ground too smother the grass. They can develop large colonies and are often left untreated as they ‘look pretty’ and can make daisy chains.

Clover has tight heads of pink, yellow or white flowers with shamrock shaped leaves (Why sham rocks and not real ones?). It thrives in poor soil and runners can be intrusive. Feed the lawn and mow regularly and treat with selective weed killer if these treatments do not work. (pick the four leaved clover for luck!)

Plantains (bottom left)have large leaves that compete for soil nutrients depriving the grass.

Buttercups stunt neighbouring plants and creeps quickly over a lawn. There was not much stunting going on in this picture.

Use Good Culture to Control Weeds

• Mow the lawn regularly with sharp blades. Set blades so the grass grows about 1″ long.
• Feed your grass and encourage it to branch freely to thicken and discourage annual weeds and grasses.
• Keep blades higher at the start of the season and in drought to conserve moisture.
• Do not let weeds set seed. Remove flowerheads and seedheads and do not put seeds in your compost.
• Treat weeds early before they have chance to get settled and grow.
• Use chemicals only with care and when absolutely necessary.

Credits
Four-leaf Clover by dalcrose CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Buttercups by R~P~M CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Shrubs heathers and conifers are great for reducing the amount of maintenance needed in your garden. Big shrubs can cover larger areas with height and spread and need very little care and maintenance.

Small Conifer for Low Maintenance

• The prostrate forms of Juniper are good looking all year round and available in greenish blue needles as well as the more traditional greens.
• Rockery sized Pinus and slow growing conifers are useful for filling gaps and do not become thugs in the garden for at least 10 years. With no need to prune and 10 years untroubled growth you can see why I class them as low maintenance and I do not even bother to feed them.
• When a conifer starts to out grow its position and reach for the sky I turf it out and start again. It is not worth the time pruning and trimming although some topiarists would strongly disagree.

Berberis can be low maintenance as the spines keep me away from the bush.

Weigelia Varigata

This shrub grows over six feet high and covers a four foot circumference. When in full flower it is very striking and the variegated leaves have interest through summer. It is easy to propagate from 12 inch long cuttings of semi ripe wood and it is a rapid grower reaching good proportions in two years. Other varieties like Bristol Ruby forsake variegated leaves for very strong coloured flowers in June and July with a late show if you cut off the old flowers but for low maintenance don’t bother.

Photinia Red Robin

This is a shrub that can be left to develop or trained up a single stem. It is part of a family of Photinias that include small trees. For this variety of Photinia fraseri five feet is a reasonable size but it will continue to grow to a hight and spread to 10 feet. The shiny evergreen leaves are bright red in spring and apart from the danger of a bit of frost to the new leaves the shrubs are hardy. Again I don’t prune my photinia but when it gets to large i will cut it back which will encourage more red leaves at the expense of flowers

Heather can be very effective ground cover with low maintenance needs. They do benefit from having a trim after flowering.

Sorry if you feel badly done too by the head line. The shrubs in question major on one colour but as there are three shrubs I called them three coloured shrubs. It seemed logical at the time but I recognise you could have been expecting tri-coloured shrubs.

The red leaves of the Photinia fraseri is often called Robinia which is really best reserved for the False Acacia or Robinia psuedoacacia ‘Frisia. In the spring the new waxy leaves are a vibrant and shiny red only slowly aging to light green. This plant copes well in the shade in a clay soil. I give it no special treatment and it forms a key part of my low maintenance area.

Behind the Photinia fraseri is another garden stalwart the Lilac. This small tree is just coming into flower and with a bit of sun each blossom will open a lighter colour and almost match the sky behind. As with the other shrubs here the Lilac likes the clay soil.

The Berberis Julianae has been very good this year which I put down to the sunny dry March and the cooler climate since then.

The angle of this photograph has changed and emphasis is placed on a white Hebe still to flower and the conical evergreen Picea.
The shrubs at the front cover the trunk of the Lilac that can be a bit uninteresting other than when the Lilac is in blossom.