After a wet winter it is a good if your lawn has no moss but it is unlikely. The yellower green patches on the photo above are where the moss is beating the grass.

Where Moss Thrives in Lawns

• If the ground and soil under the lawn is compacted
• Waterlogging or poor drainage encourages lawn moss (and moss in other areas too)
• The grass that has been scalped by the lawn mower which cuts too short is an open invitation for moss to grow
• If moss has previously been growing it is likely to return.
• Where the lawn is old and a thatch of dead grass has built up and not been raked out or aerated
• Moss will grow if the lawn is in the shade or overhung with trees, if the soil is impoverished or if you are an unlucky gardener.

Treatments and Tips

• Don’t try to compost old moss – a normal compost heap won’t help as moss wont rot it just goes into suspended animation. So the moss will be returned with the compost
• Lawn sand is a proprietary formula of chemically treated fine sand using ammonium and iron sulphate. Spread evenly in April when rain is expected this can kill and turn the moss black.
• Liquid lawn moss killers and mixed granular ‘feed and weed’ products like ‘Evergreen Organic Choice’ can help keep the moss at bay. Follow the instructions on the box, bottle or packet.
• Introduce air and drainage by spiking well. A hollow tined for will remove plugs of soil to aid this process.
• Read more tips on Controlling Moss and about Moss Cures on Gardening Products.

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Prevention may be the best course

• Aerate the soil regularly by using a hollow pronged fork. This I have found labour intensive, difficult and not very satisfying.
• Other aeration methods include special motorised devices can be hired to do the job. You can also get machines that scarify the thatch, dead leaves and moss.
• Feed the grass in spring and autumn with appropriate fertilizer.
• Try avoid too much compaction in difficult areas – keep the kids on hard wearing area
• Do not cut the grass too short
• If all else fails turn the lawn into a meadow or better still flower beds
• Moss thrives where grass struggles to grow. The best way to prevent excess moss growth is to provide conditions for strong grass growth.

Five things to do with Moss

1. Kill it regularly and often
2. Collect it and keep it in a bag until it dies
3. Put plant pots on top of it so it never sees the light of day
4. Cultivate it in the same wet spot for thousands of years then dig it up and burn it
5. Did I mention killing it

source

I have a great crop of Moss but I have no idea what I can do with it.
It grows on Roof tiles, rocks, in lawns and on some paths and is a right proper nuisance. Your ideas and tips would be welcomed.

• I am told that it is a clear sign that my lawn isn’t properly drained eventhough it is on a slope all the moss is at the top – go figure.
• I will apply lawn sand containing dicholorophen and iron sulphate as long as the European garden police haven’t banned them. Then I can safely rake it up without spreading more spores – until next time.
• Improved drainage is the only long term cure and I might have to hire an aerator or JCB
• Collecting all the moss together I will leave it to go black and die when it can be used as an acid mulch for Azaleas and acid lovers
• As another tip it can be used at the bottom of a plant holder for the pot to stand on. It keeps it all moist.
• Mixing moss with beer and sugar creates a mixture to paint on new fences and pots to give them an algea covering and and quick ageing.
• The over cropping of Sphagnum moss is causing peat bogs to dry out too quickly so try Highland moss which grows in pine forests for a sustainable hanging basket moss

Frost is not all that bad particularly when it happens at the right time of year. It can play havoc at the wrong time of year but first we will look at what good can be achieved with frost.

The Pros of Frost

• Frost can kill off aphids and winter bugs in the garden. For bugs that burrow into the soil you need a prolonged hard frost and then it gets a bit more iffy.
• The first frost is a signal of seasonal change. Nature is warned winter in nigh and can take appropriate action. It is unfair for plants to continue growing into winter if they need a seasons rest.
• Frost can help wake the dormancy of some seeds and the improve the health of roots on some bulbs and perennials.
• Frost can help winter vegetables like Brussel Sprouts to improve their sweetness and flavour.
• Frost will break down the clods of soil in your vegetable garden if it has been dug over and left in lumps.
• Frost decorates the edges of dead grass, seedheads and stems and can be a design feature in a cold garden.

The Cons of Frost

• Fruit tree buds and blossom can suffer frost damage and reduce your crop.
• The buds of Magnolia and Camellia can easily be damaged by frost particularly if the early morning sun melts the frost too quickly.
• Plants should not be planted into frosty soil as a chill will give them a severe set back or kill them.
• If shrubs or trees arrive at the wrong time ‘heel them in’ or cover with sacking until there is a gap in the frosty conditions.
• Frost can kill half hardy annuals – be patient! Plant later they will catch up.
• Young or sappy growth can be blackened by frost without the plant being killed. In spring trim off the damage.
• Frost discourage armchair gardeners but provides a time to tidy the shed or greenhouse.

Frost Prevention Measures

• Frost will slow or stop a compost heap from decomposing. Cover the top and insulate the sides to retain heat.
• Outdoor taps can freeze up so lag your taps and pipes. Drain pipes and areas that do not need water through winter.
• Keep and use a good supply of horticultural fleece to cover buds and early flowers.
• Frost gathers in low lying pockets. Cold air runs down hill. Do not plant tender plants in frost pockets or keep pots etc at the foot of slopes.
• Use the walls and eves of houses as gentle protection from severe frost.
• Read Frost Damage to Plants
• Stop ponds containing fish from freezing over by gentle agitation or a heater

Organic Tips

• Well you could try mix your own but test them on single plants first, monitoring effects for a couple of days.

• Several DIY recipes are available but I use a very weak solution of Comfrey water as a foliar feed. I put a good bunch of leaves in an old water butt for a fortnight then dilute the liquid to a weak tea colour.

• For insect infestation try a stew brewed from rhubarb leaves and a bit of vegetable oil. Crush the leaves then poor boiling water over it and let is soak for a day or two then drain off and dilute to look like weak tea and spray of water it on after adding the oil to help it stick to the plants.
• Recommended for Roses is a pyrethrum base home made from Chrysanthemum cinerariefolium or Dalmatian chrysanthemums. They are safe to use on vegetables and they are safe to eat after 24 hours if washed.
• The soil association will allow farmers to use copper compounds on potatoes and sulphur isn’t totally banned.
• ‘Organic’ products from garden supply companies can be bought from Amazon
• Milk is a mild acid and has some fungicidal properties if you want to spray a 50% solution on mildew.

Types of Sprayer

• End of Hose sprayers are the simplest and least expensive of the category but not very suitable for organic sprays.
• Compression sprayers use concentrated material added to the tank with water to a marked fill line. The remaining air is pressurized by pumping a handle. A wand then allows the fluid to be sprayed close to the problem
• A two pint sprayer is probably suitable for many jobs – this large one is £10 from Ebay shops
• Backpack sprayers or powered sprayers are better for farmers and small holdings

Homemade Insecticide & Repellant

Take an entire garlic bulb and two cups of water and mash it up together. Sieve or strain the liquid to remove dross.
Allow to settle in a container and for a couple of days.
Mix liquid with one gallon of water and spray liberally on top and bottom of leaves.
Unless you like the smell keep the spray away from your clothes.
A teaspoon of washing up liquid in a gallon of spray helps the spray to adhere to the plants leaves and stems.

If you like fast results in your garden try these ten Quick Gardeners Tips covering design, cultivation and money saving.

Money Saving Tips

• When making new lawns just make the surround or outer edge with turf about 18-24 inches wide so you can then cut a straight edge. Sow seed in the middle to save money. Take care the ground level is not raised by the turf.
• Buy small plants and grow them on if you do not have the patience to grow from seed or trust your skill with cuttings.
• Epsom salts watered on sickly plants will help green them up at a low cost.(2oz =1 gal tablespoon per rose)

Cultivation Tips

• Plants tend to put strength into their weakest parts so clean up or prune out broken and weak shoots.
• Sow wallflowers in June for a colourful, scented display the following spring.
• Companion plant mint, garlic, violas, borage, clematis, marjoram or geraniums they will all work well with Roses

Simple Design Tips

• The eye sees flowers in hot reds and yellows as appearing nearer. Blues seem to be further away so plant them at the back of borders to make the border seem deeper.
• In a small garden mix vegetables & flowers like lettuce & lobelia or peas and sweet peas. Use some vegetables just because they are quite decorative or architectural like our Artichoke pictured.
• If a plant is good or one of your favourites grow a lot in drifts not dotted around randomly.
• For fun and added interest name sections of your garden. If it is too large or has an unkempt area have a reservation or butterfly reserve, other areas may be named after people, styles or other themes.

Flowering Cherry trees contribute most to the floral pageantry of spring blossom and they are easy to grow. Cherries are graceful and well shaped trees and many varieties have excellent Autumn colour. (Scarlet leaves of Prunus sargentii and pubesens, yellow of hybrids Pandora or Tai-Haku or coppery Ukon.)

Historically most varieties originate from China and Japan including the doubles called Yae zakura. Special parties and holiday trips are arranged to visit flowering cherries in Japan where they are revered as inspiration for artists and warriors as a symbol of purity.

Designing with Cherries

• Double flowered varieties give the best effect when planted as solitary specimens or groups of 3 of the same variety.
• Do not mix varieties that flower at the same time as they detract from one another.
• An isolated specimen planted by a pool can be quite stunning when reflected in the water.
• The wild species Prunus avium looks best in large groups perhaps on a hill side.
• Single varieties are the best for avenue planting like Prunus Washi-no-o (with a name like that why not hunt it down).
• Plant 20-30 feet apart depending on the vigour of the variety.

Growing Shapes or Habits

Different species have different habits and the ultimate shape of a Cherry tree is in the DNA. For a small space a narrow upright fastigiated (clusters of erect branches often appearing to form a single column) tree resembling a short Poplar may be useful. Prunus Yedoensis erecta for example.

Tulip or wine glass shaped are broader but still useful in smaller gardens Prunus Hillieri Spire. This sort can add height to a garden design without requiring too much ground space.

Upright spreading varieties such as Tai Haku are the most familiar. Prunus Spontanea and Okame are recommended varieties.

Weeping or pendulous trees are the opposite of fastigiate and are useful near ponds and are generally lower growing like Prunus Kiku-Shidare.

There are several other standard habits including Conical or Cone maintained in shape by pruning. For smaller gardens the Bushy topped varieties like Prunus Morello and the Autumnalis may suit. Another variety of note is Prunus Shirotae with a flat topped appearance when mature that is useful when a distant view is not to be obscured.

In Japan the flowering cherry has been revered for centuries. In 1594 cherry-flower viewing parties were held by the Japanese Emperor and holiday tour operators do similar trips today. Prunus is the family name for cherries and P. Serrulata the ‘mountain cherry ‘ is the Japanese favourite. Its pure white blossom is a symbol of chivalry, purity and honour.

Single and double varieties vie for our attention and shapes and sizes vary by variety so some guidance is given below.I prefer the single white but the double pink varieties. I am grateful for some comments on shape, form and examples by Geoffrey Chadbund in his book ‘Flowering Cherries’ ISBN 00211271X.

Further Cherry Trees Shapes and Varieties

1. Upright or narrowly fastigiated – slender habit useful for restricted spaces or junctions of paths. P. Yedoensis Erecta
2. Tulip or wine glass shaped – OK for narrow borders. P.Umineko
3. Inverted funnel shape – a rather stiff but common habit of cherries in street planting P. Kanzan
4. Upright Spreading- Familiar tree shape and habit of growth P. Spontanea
5. Flat topped or tabular – with branches spreading out horizontally this can be used in landscaping P. Shirofugen
6. Weeping or Pendulous – The opposite of fastigiated, all the branches hang or arch down in a pendulous fashion. Useful near streams or on the top of mounds. P.Kinku-Shirade
7. Bushy shrubs – as the description implies P.Incisa group

Tips on Selecting Flowering Cherry trees.

With so many varieties to chose from here are a few tips that may be of assistance in choosing your variety from a list of over 200.

• Some trees have attractive bark with rings (lenticles), shine and colour. Select one of these for winter interest.
• Fit the shape of tree to the surroundings. Consider if it will block a view as it grows or how it will look in say 10-20 years. Some grow quite robustly.
• Consider Autumn colouring which can be quite a feature and cherries although many bred varieties are sterile.
• Seek out a grafted ‘Standard tree’ if you want a small tree.
• Hillier or Nocutts nurseries usually have a good selection or use the RHS plant finder.
• There are two native species: the wild cherry P.Avium and the bird cherry P.Padus.

Decorative gardens can benefit from growing seedheads for their own sake.

Flowers With Seedheads

• The clematis family produce a variety of interesting seedheads. Shortly after flowering the above heads looked truly golden in the afternoon sunshine. The fluffy seeds will eventually be dispersed from a ball of seeds that looks just as wooly.
• Honesty is aka Lunaria after the moon shaped seedhead. After the purple flower the green seedhead, shaped like an old penny or halfacrown in old money, looses the green covering to reveal a translucent white disc and ripe seeds. Even more decorative than the flowers and they can be picked as dried flowers.
• Rosehips make some of the most startling seedheads but then again berries are all seedheads of a sort. Below is a photo of Skimmia berries the main reason for growing these small shrubs

Grasses and Other Seedheads

• The natural look from planting a range of different ornamental grasses for their seedheads has become very popular.
• Bunny Tails or Hares tail grass aka Lagurus ovatus has white fluffy seed heads on narrow hairy grey-green leaves. The seedheads can be dyed a different colour for flower arranging.
• Pampas grass is another conspicuous seedhead or you could try Pony Tails Stipa Tenuissima.
• Below is a photo of Fountain grass Pennisetum.

When the bees have done their work these pollinated thistle shaped flowers become seed shakers like pepperpots. Also a seedhead for use in a dried flower arrangement.

Even if you do not grow seedheads for their own sake think about wild life. Teasels can feed birds when other food is scarce.
Try a specialist book for more ideas Seedheads in the Garden

The Alliums below make fine seedheads after a show of globe shaped flowers. The seeds turn black and are eventually shed but you get two displays for the price of one. They would definately be on my list of plants to grow for the seed heads alone.

Honesty Lunara annua flowers deep purple and then display the penny shaped round disc seed heads. (That is the old penny not this modern contraption). As the seeds mature the discs, looking purple on the photo below, fall away to release the seeds. Trapped between the two outer disks are the seeds and a paper thin inner membrane. This membrane is white and translucent giving a winter display from these fine plants.

Other resources
Read Seed heads for display and drying.

One weed that some gardeners wish they were able to grow – well then can but not always legally.

A form of grass that if you water it with neat whiskey it comes up half cut!

Cannabis the easier name to spell than Marijuana is typically considered to be one of two species Cannabis indica and Cannabis sativa.

Skunk and not Skunk cabbage but with an aroma to be sniffed at.

Hash is concentrated resin produced from the flowers of the female cannabis plant or hash is the mess I make of sowing very small seeds.

Marijuana Grower’s Handbook is a perennial favourite on marijuana cultivation. Ed Rosenthal’s popular marijuana advice column and helpful web links are included as Rosenthal delivers all the basics needed for a novice plus advanced research useful to the more experienced grower. Buy from Amazon

Get a Joint to easy your joints or call it a spliff, bone, nail or, when smoked down to the end, a roach.

November is a good time to retie your climbers to their supports. Climbing Roses benefit from the support of a sturdy frame that prevents ‘wind rock’. Wind rock loosens the roots grip on the soil by the action of high winds.

Variety of Support for climbers

• The photo below shows walled garden where the brick wall supported many climbers.
• The hoops of stiff wire on a frame in the mid distance showed another distinctive form of support.
• A complex cast iron work acts as a sculpture, archway or arbour as well as a support.
• In the foreground is a circular, tubular effort that can be purchased at many garden centers.

What makes a Good Support Tie

• Vine ties can be used to tie growth to a wall. These are like nails with eyes or soft nails that can be bent over.
• Support ties should be disguised by growth so they are not obtrusive.
• Ties should not restrict the flow of sap when growth recommences.
• Ties should not cut into the trunk, branch or stem of the plants
• The plants should be restricted so it can not blow around and become damaged.

This pergola was used to support sweet peas but was built to help more sturdy climbers. Not everyone can accommodate such a construction and it should be more covered in climbers to suit my taste.

A simple support for the most basic climber or scrambler, Ivy. The swag under the growth is a chain link and is on both sides of the path at Brodsworth Hall Barnsley. I had to look underneath to be sure there was support as it looked so natural and completely covered for many yards.

See also Trellis and Supports

Early November before heavy frost. This Hydrangea bloom still looks very attractive despite flowers fading.

After heavy frost, this pond in Oxford Botanic Garden is frozen over, though this duck doesn’t seem too displeased.

Late Autumn sunshine captures this Acer Palmatum, one of the great delights of the November Garden.

Gunnera leaves try giving some frost protection.

November Garden Tasks

• Plant Tulips. November is best month for avoiding Tulip fungal problems.
• Clear up leaves and put on leaf compost.
• Cut down perennials and add stems to compost heap, break up stems to help decomposition.
• Rake lawn to take up old thatch and moss. Sprinkle sand over waterlogged areas to help drainage.
• Move tender plants inside and mulch tender perennials for protection.
• Make sure adequate drainage in pots to prevent waterlogging.
• Plant any winter flowering plants like pansies
• You could try putting a cloch over Hellebores to try and encourage earlier flowering. You could also try an put a cloch or fleece over winter vegetables to try and extend growing season, but, low light levels may make this difficult.
• There aren’t many plants in flower at this time of the year. You can always delve into seed catalogues to look forward to next year.
• Clean and replenish Bird feeders

Houseplant and Indoor Plant Tips

• Cacti and succulents can rot if over watered. Ease back on all watering.
• Scale insects can become a problem on Citrus plants and Orchids.
• Increase humidity for indoor plants to combat central heating. I use clay granules or damp gravel to stand pots on.
• Insulate greenhouses with bubble wrap.

Related

• Frost in your garden
• Winter Flowers
• November plants at Thompson & Morgan
• Help with garden photography
• Top Ten Garden Photography Tips.

Slugs and Snails

I would like to say that slugs and snails are friendly, useful creatures to have in your garden – but I can’t. Slugs and snails have tremendous appetites for devouring your plants. The younger, tastier and more precious your plants the more likely they are to go for them. Young lettuce seedlings seem to be very tasty and a whole row can be devoured overnight by these innocuous critters.

What can be done short of genocide – well here are some Eco friendly tips:

Tips to avoid slug damage

• Discourage slugs by removing edible debris and any slugs you can spot
• A ‘beer trap’ consisting of a low tray full of beer or similar fluid can attract and drown the slugs.
• An upturned cabbage leaf will attract a host of slugs overnight and they can be collected and dispatched according to your preference.
• New ‘green’ sprays and pellets have not yet impressed me but there are a range to try.

Barrier methods to stop slugs:

• Copper works as a barrier as they wont slide and slither on it. Copper bands and tape are available to protect your most cosseted specimens.
• A raised bed with a copper edging can be used in your veg plot
• Gravel, crushed egg shells, recycled wool pellets and other hard to slitter across barriers are recommended by various gardeners and companies but the column inches devoted to the subject show that few of them work totally. When it is wet they find a way across to gorge on your tasty crops.
• ‘Slug Gone’ are wool based pellets that are organic and pet safe. The wool forms a barrier by felting together the small barbs on the wool fibres. Useful around prized plants but expensive for general use.

Slug Pellets and Slug Exterminator at Amazon

Some methods of slug genocide

A higher tech solution is to buy a biological control called Nematodes which is watered in and the nematode microbes eat them and destroy the slugs.

Size 9 gardening boots or fly them into the middle of a busy road.

Slug pellets containing metaldehyde spread every six inches or so are effective killers and last in my experience for about 10 days. However they are not pet friendly although most brands have been treated with a flavouring to deter. http://www.metaldehyde.com/meta/en.html

Good luck and if you find a permanent solution you could be on your way to making a fortune.

Read more about  Slug Pellets and protecting Hostas from Slugs