Butterflies are nice in the garden but caterpillars can cause havoc. Brassicas like Cabbages, Brussel Sprouts, and Broccoli are particularly prone to attack from Cabbage White caterpillars as you can see from my veg plot above.

Prevention and Cure for Caterpillar Damage

• Encourage the caterpillar’s natural enemies, such as wasps and birds for an environmentally sound and least cost method of dealing with caterpillar problems.
• Picking off caterpillars one by one together with any eggs is satisfying but a bit tedious if you have a lot of plants.
• Spray with soft soapy water and drop any caterpillars you have picked into soap water.
• I could have used a systemic insecticide if the EU allows and I wanted food with a residue of chemicals but that was not for me.
• A contact insecticide relies on hitting the creatures before they have done the damage and is still chemically based.
• Netting the brassicas would be a sensible prevention measure. I do that to prevent pigeons eating the young plants.
• Buy a biological control like Trichogramma wasps.They will act as parasites on the caterpillars.
• Accept that you will get some damage for the joy you get from buttterflies.

Reasons to Look After Caterpillars

• Caterpillars are an important part of the ecological mix. When they mature they help pollination provide food for wild l;ife and play an important part in the natural life cycle.
• Caterpillars turn into wild butterflies and moths.
• Carterpillars provide loads and loads of food for small birds and other creatures further up the food chain.
• Ask any small child who has been captivated by caterpillars.

Credits
Caterpillar 1 enlarged by Loco Steve CC BY 2.0
caterpillar by squeakychu CC BY-NC 2.0

Description & Growing Deciduous Azalea

• All Azalea are Rhododendron but not all Rhododendron are Azaleas. Now we have that as clear as a muddy pond what is an Azalea?
• An Azalea can be an evergreen or deciduous flowering shrub with pale or startling coloured blooms.
• Some Azaleas are scented whilst others are without scent. Whatever you think about deciduous Azaleas, ‘muddy and boring’ they are not.
• Azalea are some of the most gay and brilliant flowering shrubs yet grown.
• For the technically minded Azaleas are in the genus Rhododendron, with evergreen azaleas in the subgenus Tsutsusi and deciduous azaleas in the subgenus Pentanthera.

Varieties & Hybrids of Deciduous Azalea for Growing

• The species have been much crossed and bred but the scented Rhododendron luteum and Rhododendron japonica are available as species.
• Knapp Hill hybrids are amongst the most colourful deciduous Azaleas.
• The Ghent hybrids have sweetly scented, honeysuckle-shaped flowers with long stamen emarging from the tube.
• The Rhododendron Mollis Azaleas are crossed between Rhododendron mollis and Rhododendron japonicum
• Rustica hybrids have fragrant double flowers and Occidentale hybrids flower in late May
• The Exbury range were bred by Lionel de Rothschild who loved deciduous azaleas and carried out much breeding work to enhance colours and scent. The Solent Range was started by George Hyde a private grower in Dorset but bought for Exbury (Images).
• For specimen plants Azalea Coccinea Speciosa or R obtusum are recommended

Cultivation and Soil for Deciduous Azalea

• Azaleas need an acid soil, pH 4.5-6.0 is best. Prepare the soil well and over a good area as the plants will be in-situ for many years.
• Roots are fibrous and tend to be near the surface so don’t hoe too closely
• Azaleas are relatively pest-free, forgiving and easy to grow plants. They like to be mutually supporting so closer planting (say 3 feet for stronger growers) is better for general health.
• Mulch with at least an inch of peat, pine bark or wood chips to keep moisture in the ground, allow air into the soil, even out changes in the soil temperature and keep weeds down.

Cultivation and Watering for Deciduous Azalea

• Azaleas like moist soil at their roots. This may require supplemental watering at least until plants are established in the ground for a few years.
• Adequate water after flowering helps to produce more flower buds for next year.
• An infrequent deep soaking is more effective than superficial sprinkling. If the Autumn has been dry water well before winter.
• Azaleas do not like “wet feet”. Good drainage can be provided by planting azaleas with the tops of their root balls a few inches above ground level and mounding the soil up to the plants particularly on heavy clay soil. Moss growing on the soil is an indication of chronic bad drainage.

Unusual Facts about Deciduous Azales

• As a woodland tree Azaleas except Mollis hybrids like shade and the flowers last longer.
• Flowers start before the leaves are fully open

Old & Odd Tips From Gardeners Tips

• More sun typically produces a more compact plant. You may get more blooms but they will not last as long.
• Established azaleas do not need fertilizer but a little sulphate of ammonia in spring gives a nitrogen boost and water in potash if flowering is poor. Undertake any fertilising in late winter or early spring so you do not encourage sappy growth that may be killed in a cold winter.

‘Azaleas are flowering shrubs comprising two of the eight subgenera of the genus Rhododendron, Pentanthera (deciduous) and Tsutsuji (evergreen). Azaleas bloom in spring, their flowers often lasting several weeks. Shade tolerant, they prefer living near or under trees.’

Horticultural Sources and Links about Deciduous Azaleas

• Glendoick in Scotland is a great nursery specialising in Rhododendrons and they have some grand Deciduous Azaleas
• Burncoose Gardens Burncoose Gardens
• Cally Gardens Cally Gardens in South West Scotland)
• Glenwhan Gardens Glenwhan Gardens

Photo Credits
Deciduous azalea by Eric Hunt CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Rhododendron occidentale #4 by J.G. in S.F. CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Orange deciduous Azalea by wallygrom CC BY-SA 2.0
Azalea by dmott9 CC BY-ND 2.0
Azalea Berry Rose flower by Herms56 CC BY-NC 2.0

Ten Plants for Sun

• Petunia are treated as annuals that flower prolifically in a sunny spot.
• Passion flowers show there true colours in the sun
• French Marigolds, Tagetes and African Marigolds are vibrant after being baked in the sunshine for 6 hours a day
• Olive trees and Figs need both the light and heat from the sun.
• Lavender flowers best in full sun and this helps the natural scented oils to develop.
• Sunflowers and Viola family members are plants that turn there flower heads to the sun to maximise the light they get.
• Already I have covered 10 plants for full sun but add Fuchsias, Carnations and Phlox for cottage garden splendor.

Ten Plants for Shade

• Shade plants are less likely to have strong coloured flowers but Foxgloves give a good splash of colour.
• In deep shade think of good leaf shape and form from plants like Ferns or Hostas
• Dog woods or Cornus are grown for their coloured stems but also have small flowers
• Hebe like the variety Green Globe have a fresh green appearance in shade.
• Snowdrops in late winter followed by Dicentrica Bleeding Heart offer show colour in shade.
• Asters and Camelias will tolerate shade but prefer partial shade.
• Japanese Acers, Bay trees and Box are OK in shade.

Ten Tips about Light for Plants

• All plants have an ideal exposure to light levels and ‘time in the sun’. Try to accommodate your best plants in appropriate areas.
• As a rule of thumb 5 or more hours of direct sunlight is ‘full sun’, less than 2 hours is ‘shade’ and in between is ‘partial shade’.
• No plants survive in total dark ( fungus and mushrooms may grow) but filtered dark will allow Ivy and Aspidistra to survive although probably not thrive.
• Brightest coloured flowers are often those needing most sun but remember water also brings out the strength of colour.
• Beware the shade created by taller plants and trees.
• Shady areas can be quite dry so be prepared to water if needed. Most plants in shade like a fertile soil
• Bought plants often have an indication on the label as to the amount of light/sun required. Read the label before you buy.
• Dappled shade can be good for plants with ‘thin leaves’ like salad crops.
• Compare other gardens to see what is planted where and how well plants do in shade or full sun.
• Mediterranean and South African flowering plants generally enjoy sunny conditions at home so they expect that in our gardens

If we are lucky to have a full complement of all five senses we are fortunate gardeners. At different times of our life these senses may wax and wain, I for one can no longer read the small print on seed packets nor hear my wife when she asks me to do something other than gardening.

Gardeners would garden just for the sheer pleasure but they also want to take into account and compensate for those with impaired senses. Here are some suggestions to help focus on the five senses one at a time but the pleasure is doubled by combining plants that augment all the senses. I you have focal points for viewing what do you call points for touching, smelling, hearing and tasting?

Five Senses – Sight

• Bold colours spring to mind and one favourite is the brash Sunflower but in the veg garden Swiss Chard ‘traffic Lights’ is most colourful
• Different shapes and contrasting leaves can be added via Heuchera or Hostas. Ornaments and statues are good for creating focal points.
• White and yellow flowers start in spring with Snowdrops and Daffodils and continue through a variety of annuals and perennials. I suggest a range of Marigolds and Roses will give pleasure.
• Birds and butterflies are natural sights in a well balance garden

Five Senses – Sound

• Close your eyes and listen to your garden. Birds and insects add a vibrancy to your garden so attract them with appropriate plants.
• Trees with open canopies like birch and beech are great rustlers in a breeze.
• Bamboos sway in the breeze and if you can stand the added noise make a wind chime from the dried hollow stems.
• If you have running water so much the better. I saw a deer scarer run by solar power in a garden this week.

Five Senses – Touch

• Use pathways and lawn edges for the plants you most want to touch and hide away the spiky and prickly devils.
• Textured leaves like the hairy Lambs tails or Silver Sage are very touchable.
• Flowering grasses are airy and good for running your hands through.
• Again an appropriate statue can be stroked and petted.

Five Senses – Taste

• Herbs and vegetable come out strongly in the taste sense. Who would be without strawberries some varieties of which can now be grown in hanging baskets or containers.
• Mint, Rosemary and Lavender are old fashioned stand-byes for strong taste and the plus of scent.
• Members of the onion family including chives garlic and shallots have there own appeal.

Five Senses – Smell

• Sweet smelling garden Pinks and Chocolate Cosmos attract more garden visitors than you would imagine.
• Sweet Peas are my all time favourite and you can pick bunches for indoors throughout the flowering season.
• Over breeding has reduced the scent of some plants so smell before you buy at your local nursery or scrounge plants from other gardeners where you know the pedigree of the smell.

Many common weeds found in lawns and grass are appealing wild flowers. They look best in a meadow setting and not in a manicured lawn.

Lawn with stripes nor weeds

Problems with Lawn Weeds

• Low growing lawn weeds escape the cut of the lawnmower and can eventually create a mass of leaves that throttles the fine grasses.
• Lawn weeds can host pests and disease and create unsightly flat patches by smothering the grass.
• Lawn weeds are ugly or make a tidy lawn look unkempt.

Dandelions produce prodigious amounts of fertile seed that seems to germinate well amongst grass in the lawn.
Their deep tap roots need to be fully removed or killed to prevent a reinfestation of Dandelions. They can be spot weeded by hand or by using a spot-touch weed killer.

The common Daisy is a low growing weed that hugs the ground too smother the grass. They can develop large colonies and are often left untreated as they ‘look pretty’ and can make daisy chains.

Clover has tight heads of pink, yellow or white flowers with shamrock shaped leaves (Why sham rocks and not real ones?). It thrives in poor soil and runners can be intrusive. Feed the lawn and mow regularly and treat with selective weed killer if these treatments do not work. (pick the four leaved clover for luck!)

Plantains (bottom left)have large leaves that compete for soil nutrients depriving the grass.

Buttercups stunt neighbouring plants and creeps quickly over a lawn. There was not much stunting going on in this picture.

Use Good Culture to Control Weeds

• Mow the lawn regularly with sharp blades. Set blades so the grass grows about 1″ long.
• Feed your grass and encourage it to branch freely to thicken and discourage annual weeds and grasses.
• Keep blades higher at the start of the season and in drought to conserve moisture.
• Do not let weeds set seed. Remove flowerheads and seedheads and do not put seeds in your compost.
• Treat weeds early before they have chance to get settled and grow.
• Use chemicals only with care and when absolutely necessary.

Credits
Four-leaf Clover by dalcrose CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Buttercups by R~P~M CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Shrubs heathers and conifers are great for reducing the amount of maintenance needed in your garden. Big shrubs can cover larger areas with height and spread and need very little care and maintenance.

Small Conifer for Low Maintenance

• The prostrate forms of Juniper are good looking all year round and available in greenish blue needles as well as the more traditional greens.
• Rockery sized Pinus and slow growing conifers are useful for filling gaps and do not become thugs in the garden for at least 10 years. With no need to prune and 10 years untroubled growth you can see why I class them as low maintenance and I do not even bother to feed them.
• When a conifer starts to out grow its position and reach for the sky I turf it out and start again. It is not worth the time pruning and trimming although some topiarists would strongly disagree.

Berberis can be low maintenance as the spines keep me away from the bush.

Weigelia Varigata

This shrub grows over six feet high and covers a four foot circumference. When in full flower it is very striking and the variegated leaves have interest through summer. It is easy to propagate from 12 inch long cuttings of semi ripe wood and it is a rapid grower reaching good proportions in two years. Other varieties like Bristol Ruby forsake variegated leaves for very strong coloured flowers in June and July with a late show if you cut off the old flowers but for low maintenance don’t bother.

Photinia Red Robin

This is a shrub that can be left to develop or trained up a single stem. It is part of a family of Photinias that include small trees. For this variety of Photinia fraseri five feet is a reasonable size but it will continue to grow to a hight and spread to 10 feet. The shiny evergreen leaves are bright red in spring and apart from the danger of a bit of frost to the new leaves the shrubs are hardy. Again I don’t prune my photinia but when it gets to large i will cut it back which will encourage more red leaves at the expense of flowers

Heather can be very effective ground cover with low maintenance needs. They do benefit from having a trim after flowering.

The recent heavy rain has left even my relatively sandy soil waterlogged.

I don’t think too much damage will occur, I could have got the fork out to help drainage, but it should be OK.

Waterlogged garden

Tulips look really nice after rain.

Related

• Ecology of water in the garden
• Soil management for draught conditions

Top Ten Don’ts in Gardening

1. Don’t worry about getting it wrong, have fun and enjoy.
2. Don’t buy expensive, exotic plants that you saw on holiday because they are better grown in hot countries or conditions (like the orchids above).
3. Don’t set your sights on having a manicured bowling green type lawn unless you are a dedicated bowls player willing to act like a full-time groundsman.
4. Don’t make your life too difficult. Put high maintenance plants where you can reach them and paths and stepping stones where they can give you good access.
5. Don’t forget to keep everything looking tidy, trim lawn edges and put pots and tools out of sight (it’s what a garden shed is for as well as resting in).



6. Don’t skimp of the quality of your main tools like your spade, trowel, watering can and fork but avoid wasting cash on gadgets and gizmos.
7. Don’t forget this year nationally frost will kill more annuals by early planting than insects will kill by eating.
8. Don’t ignore your plants need for sunlight, water, food and a growing medium.
9. Don’t judge your garden against the glossy pictures in gardening magazines (they will have been touched up) or from flower shows where prize exhibits will have been selected from 100′s or 1000′s of plants.
10. Don’t let anyone put you off, garden the way you want, enjoy the results and share your enthusiasm.

Credits
Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden by pablo_marx CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Caution: Japanese Garden by ~dgies CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Dead heading Flowers is a simple but effective way to gain a longer flowering period from your plants. Snip off or pinch out old flowers as soon as they have ‘gone over’. Those flowers have done their bit for the flower gardener and it is time to make room for new flowers.

Benefits of Dead Heading Flowers

• When a plant starts to set seed, it automatically stops producing more flowers to focus its energy on developing the seed. If you cut off the dead flowers before they have time to set seed then this shuts off the signal enabling a longer flowering period to be enjoyed.
• Dead heading can create a bushier more attractive plant. In the foxglove above, the traditional spike has been replaced with numerous side shoots creating a unique look as well as an extended flower season.
• Some plants particularly annuals die after flowering and deadheading may prolong their life.
• Dead heading keeps a plant tidy. Old flowers may attract rot or disease.
• Dead heading stops unwanted self sowing of seeds from profligate species.
• Dead head even if you do not expect more flowers as it will direct energy into the plant and not reproduction.

‘Dahlia passed it’s best and ready to dead head.’

Plants which Benefit from Dead Heading

• Sweet peas
• Roses
• Marigolds
• Geraniums
• Nearly all plants will benefit from dead heading even Orchids.

Flowers Not to Dead Head

• Do not dead head flowers you are growing for drying or for seed heads. Honesty, grasses and poppy seed heads look exotic in winter when rhymed with frost.
• I leave old heads on Hydrangeas until the following year to protect young buds from frost.
• If a plant has finished flowering or it is late in the season there may be no point in dead heading.
• Do not dead head if you want to collect seed from a plant

‘Geraniums passing their best dead head now for a new flush of flowers.’

Many flowers self dead head by dropping the flowers until the plant is ready to set seed.
Other plants have so many flowers it is not worth the effort of dead heading as you will still get a good crop.
Focus energy on flowers not seeds by dead heading frequently as soon as flowers start to ‘go over’.

Bindweed - Deceptively Attractive

Continuing on our theme of garden weeds – these are some of the most common garden weed types, which you will invariably have faced at some time.

Couch Grass.

A very common weed which spreads through a system of fine underground stems. On a dry day try digging with a fork and on regrowth try spraying with Glyphosate. Covering with a mulch or solid layer is a good way of weakening or killing the plant.

Horsetail

See Dealing with horsetail. Has been around for 60 million years, if you have some in your garden you will see why. One of the most difficult weeds to eradicate.

Nettles.

Quite easy to deal with. If you are not in a rush, make repeated cuts at the base of the plant and put stems on compost. Nettles make excellent compost and are an excellent mix of stems and leaves. Young leaves can even be eaten and are quite nutritious. Nettles are also good for wildlife.

To kill off the plant use fork or spade to lift up the clumb of yellowish roots. These are not too deep. Also responds well to weedkiller.

Dandelions

In spring these will suddenly grow very vigorously. Before you know it they will have set seed and will be a problem for years to come. Therefore, the best time to act is before they set seed in late April.

They have a simple long tap root. It is hard to lift up the whole tap root without breaking off the lower part which will send up new shoots. However, it can be satisfying to try and dig up the long single tap root. Will respond to repeated weed killer sprays.

Dock Leaves.

As the saying goes where there are nettles, there will also be docks. Similar to dandelions. long tap root and can easily regrow from the smallest part.

Bindweed.

Grows through deep connection of underground white roots. Also flowers (actually very attractive) and sets seed. The roots can be a pain to dig up. But, for deep infestations, it is best to try and dig up most of the roots.
One helpful tip is to put a cane in the ground. The bindweed will grow up the cane, making it easier to apply weedkiller and avoid surrounding plants. See Bindweed Control

Ground Elder.

- Another tough nut you don’t want to see in your garden. Can spread rapidly if left unchecked. Requires hard work to get rid of it.
Japanese Knotweed.

Could well lay claim to being the worst ever weed. If you have it in your garden Good luck – either that or consider moving. More on Knotweed

More Common Garden Weeds

• Broad Leaved Willowherb. Can set thousands of seeds. Not too difficult to deal with in small quantities.
• Budleia – In one sense makes an attractive plant – loved by butterflies, but, has immense powers of reproduction, growing in most unlikely of situations.
• Thistle. A good hoeing should be enough.
• Cleavers. – Stick to your clothing. hoeing should be fine to get ride off.
• Ramsons (Wild Garlic) tough weeds
• Bittercress
• Shepherd’s Purse
• Broad Leaved Plaintain. – Not too bad.
• Creeping Buttercup – a vigorous spreader. Can grow in middle of crass and through the border. Needs its roots tackling.
• White clover – a common grass weed.
• Ivy Leaved Toadflax
• Ivy Leaved Speedwell

See also list of Uncommon Weeds

Weedkillers for Weeds

• Roundup Weedkiller concentrate. Good for large areas which need treating.

• Weedkillers at Amazon.co.uk

Alligator weed by Brisbane City Council CC BY 2.0 a snap of a weed I have never come across and have no wish so to do!