1.  Battersea Park

Festival Gardens, Peace Pagoda, Henry Moore sculpture, Exotic trees and 200 acres of lively park and amenities. All these features and more are to be found on the southside of the Thames opposite Chelsea.

2.  Hampstead Heath

Heather and heathland plants attract birds including flamingos and parakeets. The Pergola and Mawson Hill garden planting are worth a visit in this ‘green lung’ of London that has (or suffers) 10 million visits a year.

3.  Regents Park

John Nash created a formal circular design containing Queen Mary’s gardens at the centre. Regents canal, London Zoo (for garden compost no doubt), Primrose Hill, sports facilities and lots of green space are available for exploration.

4.  St. James’s Park

Despite its central location it has an intimacy and accessibility that can be squeezed into a 15 minute short cut to Buckingham Palace or used for a half day picnic and rest of weary legs.

5.  Horniman Museum Gardens

Despite the 5 acre nature trail this is a smaller well maintained garden park with herbaceous borders roses, sunken gardens and floral displays through summer.

Other Parks that missed my top 5

Green Park. Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens (although I should have made space for this).
Plant nursery at West Ham Park, 1810 garden at Holland Park, and Victoria & Mile End Park both close to Mile end tube station.

Further out I would include Richmond Park, Eastbrookend Country Park and Chiswick House

• I was pointed to these tools by a comment from a visitor too our site - thanks Zoe
• Get the key tools right to make your garden easier and more pleasurable.
  • A Spade that is light enough for your physique and a stainless steel blade will not get claggy with soil.
  • Secateurs for snipping, pruning and cutting. Have one good pair for important work and another for the ‘grunt’ jobs that are a bit tougher. I have a good bypass (scissor type) pair for pruing and an anvil pair for hard work
  • Lawn mower electric or petrol depending on the lawn size. As the adverts said ‘its much less bovver with a hovver’.
  • Trowel made from forged steel will stand hard work and cut into soil easily
  • Wheel barrow with a pneumatic tyre carries heavy loads and I prefer it too the ball type wheel
• Buy the best quality you can afford if you are going to make a lot of use of the tool. It is surprising how many tools don’t get used all that often so plan out what you need. Over 80% of the work will be done by the items in the list above.
• Pay a tree surgeon to cut hedges, prune and trim trees. They will have the right equipment andwill side away the waste.
• Maintain the tools you have:
  • Put linseed oil on wooden handles to keep them smooth and in good condition
  • Store metal wheel barrows upside down to help slow rusting from the rain
  • Keep blades clean and honed I use a wet stone to remove dried sap and keep sharp
  • Power tools need a cutout and an extension lead if your garden is large
  • Spray tools with WD40 or similar to keep rust free and moving

One thing is sure the climate in your garden will change. You already know one week will be different to the next and I can’t remember when two months or any years were the identical to others. In many areas you can get 3 or 4 seasons in one day (or in Scotland one hour!).

Another thing to be sure about is the ‘law of unintended consequences’ or we might not get the effects we expect and plan for.

The march of insects, predators and undesirables.

Changing climate does not bring more alien species but it can make our environment more welcoming for them when they do arrive. Recent arrivals include but are not limited too:

• Lily beetle the bright red insect devouring my lily bulbs as we read
• The Harlequin ladybird still a pleasant curiosity but rapidly out eating or native species with its voracious appetite. Read the rest of this entry »

They are not making ‘Carbon’ anymore nor is it ever destroyed. Carbon is one of natures greatest recycling projects. Carbon is present in gaseous form like Methane(CH4), Carbon dioxide(CO2) and monoxide(CO) and is dissolved in water particularly the oceans but most notably as a solid in rocks such as limestone, minerals like oil and coal plus trees and plant matter.

Do you think about the carbon cycle?

Is your garden carbon neutral?

Are you offsetting your own carbon emissions?

Environmental Benefits of Planting Trees

Common Sense Carbon Neutral

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At the end of June I received ‘J Parkers’ Autumn 2008 wholesale catalogue. They claim to be ‘the greatest name in Dutch Bulbs’ and I have bought from them for my garden several times with good results. Last season I bought several varieties of Muscari. Whilst the wholesale catalogue is priced without vat the prices and rates for larger quantities make for a reasonably economic priced deal if you spend the minimum order value. They supply many of the local retailers but also have a retail catalogue.

Grape Hyacinth - Muscari Varieties

• Other common names for Muscari include Starch Hyacinth or Feather Hyacinth.
• M. Plumosum the feather hyacinth have grown well and the flower heads are fuller and fluffy
• M. Azureum have soft blue flowers and I grew them in pots some of which made excellent gifts to friends and fellow gardeners.
• The third variety I bought were the porcelain blue M. Valerie Finnis and they were OK without being special.
• M Golden fragrance has yellow florets toped with purple before they are fully open. It is said to be very fragrant and I may try some this year.
• Another musk scented variety is M. Muscarium with purple to olive flower heads. They are a bit later flowering in May
• Ofter the name explains the flower shape or colour M Azureum album is pure white and M Mount Hood has a white top like a hood on the blue flowers whilst M lactifolium has a single broad leaf with a bi-coloured flower spike

Cultural tips for Grape Hyacinth

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A compost heap is an excellent way of recycling dead plant material and generating the best possible soil fertiliser. A good compost heap also gives a feeling of satisfaction because it helps the gardener to become part of the natural cycle of growth, decay and regeneration. Using a compost heap will also save many unnecessary trips to the local tip. These are some of the various aspects to good composting

The Compost Bin A compost bin should be about 1 square metre. It is important to have a good size, but, it should also be compact because otherwise the generated heat will be dissipated. It is also best to have at least two bins. This enables one heap to rot down, whilst the other is added to. A compost heap should also be aerated and enable water to enter. If you have an enclosed plastic bin, make sure you water where necessary.

Positioning. A compost heap can be really be put anywhere; most people want to choose a spot that is not too prominent. However, if it receives direct sunlight the process of decomposition will be faster.

Base Layer. At the bottom of a compost heap it is good to use some twiggy material to make sure there is good drainage; if you have a heavy clay soil, you might want to add some grit to provide good drainage. If a compost heap becomes waterlogged, the process of decomposition will slow down and it will become slimy.

Mixing Layers. The next important strategy is to provide a good mix of material when building up a compost heap. For example, grass is a high source of nitrogen and can break down quickly to generate heat. However, grass needs to be mixed with other more woody material, otherwise it will not rot down properly. Similarly on their own stems and twigs will take a long time to rot down unless they have an activator like grass or over very green material. When adding grass clippings spread them out to form a thin, equal layer; then add a layer of more twiggy material. If necessary store a potential layer for adding at the right time.

Breaking Up Twiggy Material. Thick stems will take a long time to break down. If you have a shredder, it will make the job of composting a lot more successful. It will break down the material and enable much faster composting. If you don’t have a shredder, you can just squash the stems or break them in a few places. A rather crude, but effective, tip is to get a spade and hit down on the top of the heap to break a few stems. Even this small step will help quite a lot; what you are doing is to increase the surface area, enabling faster decomposition.

Water. As mentioned before, water is important. It is important to water a compost heap a bit like watering a plant. If there is no water, the compost heap will dry out and will not decompose. If it is waterlogged it will stagnate. Most compost heaps suffer from being dry, so every now and then throw on some water to speed up the process of decomposition.

Cover. When the compost heap is finished with adequate amounts of water, it is good to cover with a plastic coating. This enable the heap to generate more heat, speeding up the process of decomposition; it also prevents excess water.

Aerate. In hot weather when a compost heap is generating a lot of heat it is a good idea to get a garden cane and poke the heap, every now and then. This allows air to enter and expedites the process of aerobic decomposition. A good heap will have steam coming from it when you aerate it.
Read the rest of this entry »

Hay fever and Asthma attacks can be brought on by Fungal Spores and allergy to Scented Plants as well as the pollen attacks covered in

http://gardenerstips.co.uk/blog/pests-problems/grow-a-low-allergy-garden-cut-down-on-pollen/

Tips to cut Spores and Fungus

• Ferns reproduce by sending out millions of spores from under the leaves. If you suffer then do not grow any ferns.
• Fungus and mould are common names for a large variety of mycelium like Alternaria that grow on dead and rotting plants. They reproduce by light invisible spores that are distributed in the air usually in late Summer and Autumn.
• Reduce the concentration of spores by good husbandary: keep clean and rotting plant matter to a minimum, don’t use bark as a mulch, dustbin infected leaves and more drastically remove hedges that collect spores
• Compost heaps are home to fungus and ideally should be avoided if you are allergic but a closed system rather than an open pile will be better
• Spent mushroom compost can be an allergy disaster - don’t use it
• Organic compost and mulch may be a problem but coconut shell is probably one of the lower spore hosts.

Scented Plants are generally pollinated by insects feeding on the nectar. This can include wasps and bees so if you are allergic to stings avoid such plants. Some people are sensitive to a range of smells and perfumes or just the scent of one plants such as a lily or honeysuckle and in this case choosing plants for a garden can be an issue.

• Aromatic leaved plants like many herbs only give off a scent when brushed or crushed so it may be worth growing herbs but take care with Lavender.
• If you are allergic to Daisies you will also potentially be allergic to Asters, Chrysanthemeum and other members of the same ‘compositae’ family.
• Don’t sniff individual plants
• Many double flowered varieties attract pollination by colour and have less scent.
• Fruit attract wasps so if allergic to stings don’t grow them or have another member of the family grow them well away from windows into the house.
• Some allergies are related to individual plants like Strawberries and Tomato so watch for individual reactions and root out offenders.

http://www.5min.com/Video/Asthma-Friendly-Gardens-26176060

Breathing Allergies

Hay fever sufferers don’t need to told about the typical symptoms of sniffing, sneezing, puffy eyes, sore throat and a runny nose. Starting in spring through summer these symptoms are likely to be caused by pollen and allergens. All year round symptoms are more likely to be caused by dust mites or pets such as cats.

Asthma is characterised by chest and breathing problems and can be caused by allergic triggers such as pollution, infection, or allergens. Airborne particles including pollen and fungal spores can bring on an attack especially if there is a known susceptibility to asthma.

Hay Fever and Asthma sufferers should cut down on Pollen

• Given the above it is logical to avoid plants that are high in pollen particularly those that are wind pollinated. This includes grasses, weeds like docks and plantains, trees and shrubs that flower before the leaves are fully formed such as Hazel,Alder, Oak, Poplar, Sycamore and Birch.
• Use other low pollen trees such as pink or red Hawthorne, Crab Apple, Prunus Cherries or Mountain Ash. These trees attract Bees so if allergic to stings then be even more selective with Ameleranchier or double flowered Japanese Cherries.
• Female flowers do not produce pollen so chooses them in preference to male plants
• If you can avoid having a lawn that may be best if not cut it regularly before it flowers or better still get a none sufferer to cut it. This is because even un-flowered grass will have trapped other pollen, dust and spores that is disturbed when cut.
• For play areas use play ground rubber, artificial turf or inert covering but be aware of dusty surfaces
• For flat areas use ponds or water to reflect other green colours from the garden

Select varieties with low Allergic pollens

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There are many families, species and varieties of grass suitable for ornamental purposes. Weather you want a prairie grass-scape, a potted plant or a focal point in a formal garden then there is a grass to suit. Grasses are well suited to a range of landscaping projects.

The Fescue, Pennisetum, Panticum, Carex, Miscathus, Stipa and many other species are covered below. A recommended variety is given where ever possible along with shore notes. Grasses are perennial unless stated to be annuals.

Blue Fescue (Festuca ovinia var. glauca) are mound-forming, semi-evergreen perennials used as specimen plants in borders and rock gardens.

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The objective of a Stumpery is to create a garden feature from ferns, logs and old tree roots. The Victorians started a trend to build Rooteries, Ferneries and Stumperies as romantic woodland places to grow exotic ferns and woodland plants. If you have a dark corner or want to collect ferns then you could start your own Stumpery quite easily and add to it as the fancy takes you.

Construction

• Old trees are the basic raw material.
• Up rooted tree stumps like those after a big storm or pulled out by chains form a great base
• Gnarled and twisted shapes work well to create form and shape
• just cutting trees down to stumps can be enough in a small garden
• If you live in or near the countryside finding logs and tree stumps should be relatively easy.
• In a suburban gardens a few pieces of trunk from felled sycamore can form the basis for a mini-stumpery.
• Drift wood old branches or any wood artfully arranged can also be used
• Bark chippings can unite the feel for the area

Planting Up with some Ferns to Try

• Mosses and lichen can be encouraged by painting uncovered surfaces with yoghurt
• Ferns should be planted in spaces between stumps and roots. They like dark places without fertiliser but some leaf mold can be added to the soil.
• Chose a variety of ferns for shape, size and colour.

1. Matteuccia Ostrich feather fern upto 3 feet
2. Dyopterarias erythrosora has elegant fronds that emerge bright orange and change to lime-green as they age.
3. Harts Tongue fern Phylitis has a smoother leaf and sword shape
4. Athyriums like the Japanese painted fern (niponicum pictum,) and Lady fern are smaller but can  light up very dark places.
5. Adiantum pedatum is a small maidenhair fern with a fragile appearance but a hardy nature. It has a running rootstock that quickly makes a respectable clump.

• Snowdrops, celandines,primroses and foxgloves may grow well in semi shaded areas or on the edge of the Stumpery.
• If planting Bluebells make sure they are the native kind not the hybrid or Spanish variety

More information on Ferns is available on http://www.ferns.com/